This post contains affiliate links in form of text links – marked with an asterisk (*) in purple – and banners, all from carefully selected craft suppliers.
When you purchase something through one of the links, I earn a tiny commission – no extra cost to you. Every bit means support towards the expenses of website hosting, email service, secure gateways and all the other tools and apps required to bring these patterns to you. Win-win, right?
Background Story and Designer's Thoughts
If you are interested in the background story and thoughts about the inspiration for design, colour and choice of stitches used, you can do that here:
Outlanding Stitch Compendium
“Petranese” is the Black Sheep Crochet way of writing overlay crochet patterns.
If you are not yet familiar with this system, you can download your free copy of the Outlanding Stitch Compendium with explanations, instructions and photo tutorials for some special stitches here:
Alternatively, visit the online version
Outlanding Stitch Compendium Resource Page
or check out the ‘Petranese’ explained Tutorial series
Introduction and FAQ
Please refer to the Pattern Introduction and FAQ page for general information about
-Skill Level
-Gauge
-Recommended Yarn and Yardage
-Yarn Kit Colour Suggestions
-12 Square Layout Samples for Jamie, Claire and Scotland colourway in solid colours and
-Terminology
Video Tutorials
You can find all video tutorials for this and other released squares in my YouTube Channel for Black Sheep Crochet, where you can also subscribe for automatic notification when new videos are uploaded.
All videos are in “Germanised British English US crochet terms Petranese”.
NO VIDEO TUTORIAL MAY BE CREATED FROM THIS PATTERN – IN ANY LANGUAGE – WITHOUT THE DESIGNER’S WRITTEN PERMISSION!
PDF Download
Your resources for this pattern are
– a free written pattern page (this one)
– including finished round pictures and
– picture tutorial for tricky stitches
– a free video tutorial (right-handed and left-handed version)
– pattern support in our dedicated Facebook and Ravelry groups
There is no obligation to download the PDF version of this pattern. If you are a bit tech savvy or know someone who is, you can make a PDF from the website.
However, if you like the pattern and want to support my design work or appreciate the pattern without ads to take along with you, there is an option to purchase the ad-free PDF version of this pattern for a small contribution through the shop.
PDF purchases include the following bonuses:
- a 32 page pattern booklet
- my very own unofficial, hand ‘written’ design chart
- Visuals for all rounds with special stitches / repeats or repeats within repeats / complicated rounds
- Suggestions and photos for stitch marker placement
- pattern as written pattern only AND detailed step-by-step, close-up photo tutorial pattern version
Chart Preview
Translations
This patterns is currently only available in Germanised British English US crochet terms Petranese.
There are plans to have it translated into different languages soon.
THIS PATTERN MUST NOT BE TRANSLATED INTO ANOTHER LANGUAGE (EXCEPT FOR YOUR OWN PERSONAL USE) WITHOUT THE DESIGNER’S WRITTEN PERMISSION!
You will also need
- scissors
- darning needle to weave in ends
- stitch markers* (optional, but highly recommended, this could even be a yarn scrap, a hair pin or a paperclip)
Reminder and Important Pattern Notes
For each special stitch you make in front, behind, around or in the front loop of another stitch from a previous round, you must leave the stitch behind or in front of the special stitch unworked (skip 1 stitch) unless instructed otherwise.
The ch1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch and will be skipped when we slip stitch into the first sc at the end of each round.
Keep the slip stitch that closes the round loose as it will replace the sc below as the last stitch of the next round.
The use of stitch markers* is optional and mainly intended to encourage and support less experienced crocheters. If finding free front loops is easy for you, you are likely to be quicker by crocheting without stitch markers.
‘Optional’ stitch marker* placements are suggested for the adventurous beginner and may not be necessary for intermediate and advanced crocheters.
‘Suggested’ stitch marker* placements are considered beneficial or essential for correct and easy stitch placement for all crochet levels.
If you follow the suggested stitch marker* placements, take the st markers out of the stitch or front loop after the special stitches have been worked, unless instructed otherwise.
Specials Stitches used in this pattern
Special stitches relevant for this pattern are outlined below and specified in more detail above each round.
fpsc – front post single crochet – single crochet around the next st
dcbb – double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds below) below the next st
dtr_+3-4 in FLO – double treble in FLO of the st 3 ahead and 4 rounds below the next st
dtr_-3-4 in FLO – double treble in FLO of the st 3 behind and 4 rounds below the next st
dtr-2tog – dtr_-3-4 in FLO/dtr_+3-4 in FLO/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– first leg a double treble in FLO of the st 3 behind and 4 rounds below the next st
– and second leg a double treble in FLO of the st 3 ahead and 4 rounds below the next st
fpdtr_+3-4 – front post double treble around the st 3 ahead and 4 rounds below the next st
fpdtr_-3-4 – front post double treble around the st 3 behind and 4 rounds below the next st
fpdtr-2tog-1 – fpdtr_-3-4/fpdtr_+3-4/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– first leg a front post double treble around the st 3 behind and 4 rounds below the next st
– and second leg a front post double treble around the second leg only of the st 3 ahead and 4 rounds below the next st
fpdtr-2tog-2 – fpdtr_-3-4/fpdtr_+3-4/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– first leg a front post double treble around the first leg of the st 3 behind and 4 rounds below the next st and
– second leg a front post double treble around the st 3 ahead and 4 rounds below the next st
Skip 1 st behind each special st (except the fpsc); skip 1 st in front of each dcbb
Pattern
Begin
with a Magic Circle (MC) or Double Magic Circle (DMC).
If you are unfamiliar with the MC / DMC or don’t want to use it and you don’t mind the hole in the middle of the square, you can start with 2 ch and crocheting Round 1 into the first ch.
Round 1
Ch1, [sc into MC / DMC, ch2] 4 times. Close your MC / DMC tightly.
Ss into the first sc of the corner to close the round . – 1 stitch per side plus ch2 corner space
Note: If you crochet over the loose tail for a few rounds, you won’t have to weave it in later
Round 2
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
3 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Round 3
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
3 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
5 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Round 4
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
5 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
7 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Round 5
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
sc in BLO, 5 sc, sc in BLO] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
9 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Optional stitch marker placement for Round 8:
- Colour A in the first free FL of the st from Round 4
- Colour B in the last free FL of the st from Round 4
Round 6
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
9 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
11 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
WeCrochet are offering a pecial Coupon Code for Wrapped In Jamie CAL participants that you can apply to receive 10% off their Brava Sport yarn, which is already great value, even without the extra discount.
Round 7
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
11 sc] 4 times
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
13 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitch in Round 8:
dtr_+3-4 in FLO – double treble in FLO of the st 3 ahead and 4 rounds below the next st (free FL of the st from Round 4, *st marker in colour A / blue)
dtr_-3-4 in FLO – double treble in FLO of the st 3 behind and 4 rounds below the next st (free FL of the st from Round 4 that already holds the second leg of the dtr-2tog, *st marker in colour B / red)
dtr-2tog – dtr_-3-4 in FLO/dtr_+3-4 in FLO/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– first leg a double treble in FLO of the st 3 behind and 4 rounds below the next st (free FL of the st from Round 4 that already holds the dtr_+3-4; *st marker in colour A / blue)
– and second leg a double treble in FLO of the st 3 ahead and 4 rounds below the next st (free FL of the st from Round 4, *st marker in colour B / red)
Skip 1 st behind each special st
Round 8
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
dtr_+3-4 in FLO
(*leave the colour A st marker in) ,
5 sc, dtr-2tog
(*remove colour A st marker, leave the colour B st marker in),
5 sc, dtr_-3-4 in FLO
(*remove colour B st marker)]
4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
15 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitch in Round 9:
- dcbb – double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st
Skip the special st in front of the dcbb
Round 9
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
sc, (dcbb, 5 sc) twice, dcbb, sc]
4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
17 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Alternative Round 9:
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 15 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 17 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Round 10
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
17 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
19 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
If you enjoy this pattern, please tell your friends about it on Ravelry, Facebook or Instagram. Let them – and me! – see your finished square with hashtag #black_sheep_crochet, #wrappedinjamie, #wrappedinjamiecal or #square11
In case you want to see all Black Sheep Crochet activities, you can follow the facebook page here:
https://www.facebook.com/blacksheepcrochetdesign/
If you are not a facebook fan, join the Ravelry group. I am still learning how to create groups and put the patterns up there. Bear with me!
https://www.ravelry.com/groups/wrapped-in-jamie-cal-project-group—black-sheep-crochet/
Not keen on Ravelry either?
Join the Wrapped in Jamie Clan email list for all exclusive WIJ CAL updates. No spam, no salesy emails, -just WIJ!
Check out all subscribe options here:
https://blacksheepcrochet.com/joining-the-flock/
Round 11
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
19 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
21 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitches in Round 12:
- fpdtr_+3-4 – front post double treble around the st 3 ahead and 4 rounds
below the next st (dtr_+3-4 in FLO from Round 8) - fpdtr_-3-4 – front post double treble around the st 3 behind and 4 rounds
below the next st (dtr_-3-4 in FLO from Round 8) - fpdtr-2tog-1 – fpdtr_-3-4/fpdtr_+3-4/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– first leg a front post double treble around the st 3 behind and 4 rounds
below the next st (dtr_+3-4 in FLO from Round 8) and
– second leg a front post double treble around the second leg only of the st 3 ahead and 4 rounds below the next st (second leg of the dtr-2tog from Round 8) - fpdtr-2tog-2 – fpdtr_-3-4/fpdtr_+3-4/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– first leg a front post double treble around the first leg of the st 3 behind and 4 rounds below the next st (first leg of the dtr_+3-4 from Round 8) and
– second leg a front post double treble around the st 3 ahead and 4 rounds below the next st (dtr_-3-4 in FLO from Round 8)
Skip 1 st behind each special st
Round 12
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
sc, fpdtr_+3-4, 5 sc, fpdtr-2tog-1,
5 sc, fpdtr-2tog-2,
5 sc, fpdtr_-3-4, sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
23 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Round 14 will be worked in 3rd loops only. If you find making sc in the 3rd loop difficult, please refer to ‘Hint for Rounds 13/14, 19/20 (and 29/30 of the Border)’ in the ‘Outlanding Stitch Compendium’ to make this easier.
Special Stitch in Round 13:
- fpsc – front post single crochet – single crochet around the next st
Round 13
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
2 sc, (fpsc, 5 sc) 3 times, fpsc, 2 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
25 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Round 14
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
25 sc in 3rd loop] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
27 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Round 15
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
4 sc, (sc in BLO, 5 sc) 3 times, sc in BLO, 4 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 29 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Optional stitch marker placement for Round 18:
- Colour A (blue) in the first and last free FL of the st from Round 14
- Colour B (red) in the second and third free FL of the st from Round 14
Round 16
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
sc in BLO, 27 sc, sc in BLO] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 31 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Optional stitch marker placements for Round 18:
- Colour A in the first and last free FL of the sts from Round 15
Round 17
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
31 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 33 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitches in Round 18:
- tr/dtr-2tog – tr_-2-3 in FLO/dtr_+3-4 in FLO/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– first leg a treble in FLO of the st 2 behind and 3 rounds below the next st (first free FL of the st from Round 14; *first st marker in colour A / blue)
– and second leg a double treble in FLO of the st 3 ahead and 4 rounds below the next st (first free FL of the st from Round 13, *st marker in colour A / blue)
- dtr-2tog – dtr_-3-4 in FLO/dtr_+3-4 in FLO/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– first leg a double treble in FLO of the st 3 behind and 4 rounds below the next st (free FL of the st from Round 13 that already holds the tr/dtr-2tog; *st marker in colour A / blue)
– and second leg a double treble in FLO of the st 3 ahead and 4 rounds below the next st (free FL of the st from Round 13, *st marker in colour B / red, respectively st marker in colour A / blue for the third dtr-2tog)
- dtr/tr-2tog – dtr_-3-4 in FLO/tr_+2-3 in FLO/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– first leg a double treble in FLO of the st 3 behind and 4 rounds below the next st (last free FL of the st from Round 13, *st marker in colour A / blue)
– and second leg a treble in FLO of the st 2 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st (last free FL of the st from Round 14; *last st marker in colour A / blue)
Skip 1 st behind each special st
Round 18
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
4 sc, tr/dtr-2tog, (5 sc, dtr-2tog) 3 times, 5 sc, dtr/tr-2tog, 4 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 35 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Note: Round 20 will be worked in 3rd loops only again. If you decided to use an alternative way of making Rounds 13/14 from the ‘Hints for Rounds 13/14, 19/20 (and 29/30 of the Border)’ in the ‘Outlanding Stitch Compendium’ apply this here as well.
It is recommended to use the same method for all squares and all square borders, especially when the heights of rounds are affected.
Special Stitch in Round 19:
- fpsc – front post single crochet – sc around the next st.
The next st after the fpsc can be hidden
Round 19
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 5 sc, (fpsc, 5 sc) 5 times] 4 times
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 37 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
If you want to add the square border or work the last round of the square in a different colour, fasten off the first colour now.
Finish with an invisible join, weave in the ends and skip to ‘Colour change for Round 20’ or continue with the Square Border pattern
Colour change for Round 20:
Although you could add the new colour in any way you wish, the neatest way is by using a standing sc. If you choose this method, omit the ch1 and the first sc at the beginning of Round 20 and continue with the ch2 after the standing sc.
Round 20
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 37 sc in 3rd loop] 4 times.
Finish with an invisible join. –
39 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Congratulations, your Square 11 – Next of Kin is now finished 🙂
If you want to take pretty pictures, you can block your square.
There are different ways to block a square, which I will write about in a different post.
You can go thrifty or luxurious with your blocking tools* or a mixture of both. Either way, your squares will most likely look straighter with an increased stitch definition when they have been blocked.
This post contains affiliate links in form of text links – marked with an asterisk (*) in purple – and banners, all from carefully selected craft suppliers.
When you purchase something through one of the links, I earn a tiny commission – no extra cost to you. Every bit means support towards the expenses of website hosting, email service, secure gateways and all the other tools and apps required to bring these patterns to you. It’s a win-win, right?
I participate in the following programs:
Knitcrate
