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Background Story and Designer's Thoughts
If you are interested in the background story and thoughts about the inspiration for design, colour and choice of stitches used, you can do that here:
Get Claire on Ravelry or the Black Sheep Crochet Shop with 20% off the purchase price during the first release week (15th to 22nd of December 2020). No coupon code needed, the price is automatically reduced for this period.
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'Petranese' explained
“Petranese” is the Black Sheep Crochet way of writing Image Overlay Crochet patterns.
If you are not yet familiar with this system, you can study your free copy of Image Overlay Crochet (IOC terminology ‘Petranese’ explained – Basics document with explanations, instructions and photo tutorials for some special stitches and techniques that is included in the pattern purchase.
Alternatively, check out our library of tutorials:
Video Tutorials
You can find all video tutorials for this and other released squares in my YouTube Channel for Black Sheep Crochet, where you can also subscribe for automatic notification when new videos are uploaded.
All videos are in “Germanised British English US crochet terms Petranese”.
This means I am using Image Overlay Crochet abbreviations based on US crochet terminology, British/Australian speech and grammar for instructions and narrations, ‘spiced’ and ‘enriched’ with germanised expressions due to not being a native English speaker.
NO VIDEO TUTORIAL MAY BE CREATED FROM THIS PATTERN – IN ANY LANGUAGE – WITHOUT THE DESIGNER’S WRITTEN PERMISSION!
Right-handed video
Left-handed video
PDF download
As mentioned, hundreds of hours go into the design and creation of the written pattern, charts, photo tutorials, supporting special stitch tutorials, and the videos.
By purchasing the ad-free PDF version of this pattern you support an independent designer and contribute to covering costs for domain, website hosting, email providers, shop features and other technical necessities.
Besides my gratitude and appreciation, you receive the written pattern including extra support and features, like visuals, the special overlay crochet chart which is excellent for easy stitch placement reference, a photo tutorial* and all the links listed relating to this pattern.
(*the photo tutorial for this specific pattern will come to you as a pattern update as soon as it is ready)
You can find the pattern in the shop here:
Early Bird Special
Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart
You pay for the complete pattern; Part 1 and Part 2 are already in the library; Parts 3 and 4 as well as the photo tutorials for all parts will be delivered as updates.
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Spread the expense – get the single parts for the reduced price as they are released
Photo Tutorial
Coming in January 2022!
In order to ensure the best possible website performance, this pattern will only display a limited number of tutorial pictures. A detailed photo tutorial is available as part of the PDF pattern (added as an update).
Translations
This patterns is currently only available in Germanised British English US crochet terms Petranese.
There are plans to have it translated into different languages later on. If you are experienced and would like to support the translations, please contact the designer.
THIS PATTERN MUST NOT BE TRANSLATED INTO ANOTHER LANGUAGE (EXCEPT FOR YOUR OWN PERSONAL USE) WITHOUT THE DESIGNER’S WRITTEN PERMISSION!
What you will need
If you have made any of the other Wrapped in Jamie squares , you have an approximate idea of the amount you need for one square.
Claire is as big as four squares including the square border, so it will require approximately the same amount of yarn. Make sure you are rather on the generous site when calculating your yardage.
If this is your first Wrapped in Jamie design, you can get a general idea about yarn requirements here:
Wrapped in Jamie squares Yarn requirements
You will also need
- scissors
- darning needle to weave in ends
- stitch markers* (optional, but highly recommended, this could even be yarn scrap, a hair pin or a paperclip) – if you choose to use stitch markers, it will be good to have at least 4 different colours. And lots of them 😉
Reminder and Important Pattern Notes
Skipping stitches
For each special stitch you make in front, behind, around or in the front loop of another stitch from a previous round, you must leave the stitch behind or in front of the special stitch unworked (skip 1 stitch) unless instructed otherwise. A reminder to skip those stitches will be written under the special stitches for each round, not within the pattern instructions. If more than one special stitch has been worked and therefore more than one stitch needs to be skipped, a reminder is included in the pattern instructions.
It is not necessary to skip a stitch when the special stitch is being worked over a stitch and therefore envelopes it, as it is for example the case with spike and split spike stitches, hdc-arounds or psc and psc-x.
While we skip a stitch behind a long front post stitch, a front post single crochet does not leave a lot of room for skipping (although technically we still skip at least the top loops of the stitch we fpsc around).
The main objective here is to avoid unnecessary increases, so please keep that in mind.
Ch1 and slip stitch
The ch1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch and will be skipped when we slip stitch into the first stitch at the end of each round.
Keep the slip stitch that closes the round loose as it will replace the stitch below as the last stitch of the next round.
Stitch markers
The use of stitch markers* is optional and mainly intended to encourage and support less experienced crocheters. If finding free front loops is easy for you, you are likely to be quicker crocheting without stitch markers.
- ‘Optional’ stitch markers*placements are suggested for the adventurous beginner and may not be necessary for intermediate and advanced crocheters.
- ‘Suggested’ stitch markers* placements are considered beneficial or essential for correct and easy stitch placement for all crochet levels.
If you follow the suggested stitch markers* placements, take the stitch markers out of the stitch or front loop after the special stitches have been worked, unless instructed otherwise.
Picot Single Crochet
A psc-x is made when the next st is a special stitch where the stitch behind it is skipped. The nature of the psc requires some anchoring, which is achieved by making the variation psc-x. You can make a psc-x (picot single crochet variation) whenever the pattern calls for a regular psc, but not the other way around.
Special Stitches used in this pattern
Please note: The special stitches work well for crocheters/crochettes with a ‘normal’ or ‘tight’ tension. If your tension is loose, you will find that using, for example, tr instead of dtr will give you a cleaner and crisper stitch definition.
In contrast, if your tension is very tight, please give an extra yarn over when making long stitches.
Special stitches relevant for this pattern are outlined below and specified in more detail above each round.
psc – picot single crochet – insert hook in next st, yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times) (2 loops on hook), yo and pull through 2 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front)
psc-x – picot single crochet variation – insert hook in front loop only of the next st,
yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times) (2 loops on hook), insert hook in the back loop (3 loops on hook),
yo and pull through 3 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front)
Spst_0-3 – Spike st into the corner space 3 rounds below the next st
Spst_+1-2 – Spike st into the corner space 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
Spst_-1-2 – Spike st into the corner space 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
Apply the option that is relevant for the split Spike stitch (spSp) you are about to work:
When working a spSp into a normal st (sc): insert the hook between the vertical bars of the st you work into; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS
When working a spSp into another spSp: insert the hook between the elongated bars of the spSp you work into so that the hook still appears below the 3rd loop on the WS
spSp_0-3 – split Spike st into the st 3 rounds below the next st
spSp_+1-2 – split Spike stitch into the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
spSp_-1-2 – split Spike stitch into the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
spSp_+2-2 – split Spike stitch into the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
spSp_-2-2 – split Spike stitch into the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
spSp_+2-3 – split Spike stitch into the st 2 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st
spSp_-2-3 – split Spike stitch into the st 2 behind and 3 rounds below the next st
spSp_+2-4 – split Spike stitch into the st 2 ahead and 4 rounds below the next st
spSp_-2-4 – split Spike stitch into the st 2 behind and 4 rounds below the next st
spSp_-2-2/spSp_+3-2/<2tog – 2 split Spike stitches together with
- leg 1: into the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st and
- leg 2: into the st 3 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
spSp_-3-2/spSp_+2-2/<2tog – 2 split Spike stitches together with
- leg 1: into the st 3 behind and 2 rounds below the next st and
- leg 2: into the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
Apply to all legs of the Ldc_Star5:
Pull the loop up to the height of the current round
Ldc_Star5 – 5 long double crochet legs combined into 1 st with
- leg 1: in FLO of the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st and
- leg 2: in FLO of the st 1 behind and 3 rounds below the next st and
- leg 3: in FLO of the st 4 rounds below the next st and
- leg 4: in FLO of the st 1 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st and
- leg 5: in FLO of the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
dc_+1-2 in FLO – double crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
dc_-1-2 in FLO – double crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
fpdtr_+2-3 – front post double treble around the st 2 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st
fpdtr_-2-3 – front post double treble around the st 2 behind and 3 rounds below the next st
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Purchase each part individually through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop
Spread the expense – get the single parts for the reduced price as they are released
Pattern
Begin
with a Magic Circle (MC) or Double Magic Circle (DMC).
If you are unfamiliar with the MC / DMC or don’t want to use it and you don’t mind the hole in the middle of the square, you can start with 2 ch and crocheting Round 1 into the first ch.
Round 1: Ch1, [sc, ch2] 4 times. Close your MC/DMC tightly.
Ss into the first sc. – 1 stitch per side plus ch2 corner space
Hint: If you crochet over the loose tail for a few rounds, you won’t have to weave it in later. Changing the tail’s direction with each round or side will make it more secure.
Round 2: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 3 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitch in Round 3:
- psc – picot single crochet – insert hook in next st, yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times) (2 loops on hook),
yo and pull through 2 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front)
Round 3: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc, psc, sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 5 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitches in Round 4:
- spSp_+1-2 – split Spike stitch into the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
- spSp_-1-2 – split Spike stitch into the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
(One of each of the spSp sts are worked into the same st; insert the hook between the vertical bars of the st for the spSp sts; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS)
Round 4: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
sc, spSp_+1-2, sc, spSp_-1-2, sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 7 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitch in Round 5:
- psc – picot single crochet – insert hook in next st, yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times) (2 loops on hook),
yo and pull through 2 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front)
Round 5: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
(sc, psc) 3 times, sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 9 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart
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Purchase each part individually through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop
Spread the expense – get the single parts for the reduced price as they are released
Special Stitches in Round 6:
- spSp_+1-2 – split Spike stitch into the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
- spSp_-1-2 – split Spike stitch into the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
(you work these sts into another spSp; insert the hook between the elongated bars
of the spSp you work into; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS)
Round 6: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
2 sc, spSp_+1-2, 3 sc, spSp_-1-2, 2 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 11 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitch in Round 7:
- psc – picot single crochet – insert hook in next st, yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times) (2 loops on hook),
yo and pull through 2 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front)
Round 7: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
(sc, psc) twice, 3 sc, (psc, sc) twice] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 13 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitches in Round 8:
- spSp_+2-2 – split Spike stitch into the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
- spSp_-2-2 – split Spike stitch into the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
(you work these sts into another spSp; insert the hook between the elongated bars
of the spSp you work into; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS)
Round 8: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
2 sc, spSp_+2-2, 7 sc, spSp_-2-2, 2 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 15 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitch in Round 9:
- psc – picot single crochet – insert hook in next st, yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times) (2 loops on hook),
yo and pull through 2 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front)
Round 9: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
(sc, psc) twice, 7 sc, (psc, sc) twice] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 17 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitches in Round 10:
- spSp_+1-2 – split Spike stitch into the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
- spSp_-1-2 – split Spike stitch into the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
(One of each of the spSp sts are worked into the same st; insert the hook between the vertical bars of the st for the spSp sts; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS)
Round 10: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
7 sc, spSp_+1-2, sc, spSp_-1-2, 7 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 19 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
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You pay for the complete pattern; Part 1 and Part 2 are already in the library; the photo tutorials for all parts will be delivered as updates
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Spread the expense – get the single parts for the reduced price as they are released
Special Stitches in Round 11:
- psc – picot single crochet – insert hook in next st, yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times) (2 loops on hook),
yo and pull through 2 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front) - psc-x – picot single crochet variation – insert hook in front loop only of the next st,
yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times) (2 loops on hook), insert hook in the back loop (3 loops on hook),
yo and pull through 3 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front) - spSp_+2-3 – split Spike stitch into the st 2 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st
- spSp_-2-3 – split Spike stitch into the st 2 behind and 3 rounds below the next st
(you work these sts into another spSp; insert the hook between the elongated bars
of the spSp you work into; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS)
- psc – picot single crochet – insert hook in next st, yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times) (2 loops on hook),
Round 11: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
2 sc, psc-x, spSp_+2-3, psc, 9 sc, psc-x, spSp_-2-3, psc, 2 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 21 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitches in Round 12:
- psc – picot single crochet – insert hook in next st, yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times) (2 loops on hook),
yo and pull through 2 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front) - spSp_+1-2 – split Spike stitch into the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
- spSp_-1-2 – split Spike stitch into the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
(you work these sts into another spSp; insert the hook between the elongated bars
of the spSp you work into; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS)
Round 12: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
4 sc, psc, 3 sc, spSp_+1-2, sc, psc, sc, spSp_-1-2, 3 sc, psc, 4 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 23 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Round 13: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
3 sc, sc in BLO, 15 sc, sc in BLO, 3 sc ] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 25 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Optional stitch marker placement for Round 16:
- Colour A in the free FL of the sts from Round 12
Special Stitches in Round 14:
- psc – picot single crochet – insert hook in next st, yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times) (2 loops on hook),
yo and pull through 2 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front) - psc-x – picot single crochet variation – insert hook in front loop only of the next st,
yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times) (2 loops on hook), insert hook in the back loop (3 loops on hook),
yo and pull through 3 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front) - spSp_+1-2 – split Spike stitch into the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
- spSp_-1-2 – split Spike stitch into the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
(you work these sts into another spSp; insert the hook between the elongated bars
of the spSp you work into; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS)
Round 14: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
3 sc, sc in BLO, sc, sc in BLO, 3 sc, spSp_+1-2, psc,
3 sc, psc-x, spSp_-1-2, 3 sc, sc in BLO, sc, sc in BLO, 3 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 27 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Optional stitch marker placement for Round 16:
- Colour B in the free FL of the sts from Round 13
Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart
You pay for the complete pattern; Part 1 and Part 2 are already in the library; Parts 3 and 4 as well as the photo tutorials for all parts will be delivered as updates
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Purchase each part individually through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop
Spread the expense – get the single parts for the reduced price as they are released
Special Stitches in Round 15:
- Spst_+1-2 – Spike stitch into the corner space 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
- Spst_-1-2 – Spike stitch into the corner space 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
Round 15: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
sc, Spst_-1-2, sc, sc in BLO, 3 sc, sc in BLO, 5 sc, sc in BLO,
5 sc, sc in BLO, 3 sc, sc in BLO, sc, Spst_+1-2, sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 29 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Optional stitch marker placement for Round 16:
- Colour C in the free FL of the sts from Round 14
Optional stitch marker placement for Round 16:
- Colour D in the free FL of the sts from Round 14
Special Stitches in Round 16:
- psc – picot single crochet – insert hook in next st, yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times) (2 loops on hook),
yo and pull through 2 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front) - Spst_0-3 – Spike st into the corner space 3 rounds below the next st
- spSp_+2-2 – split Spike stitch into the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
- spSp_-2-2 – split Spike stitch into the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
(you work these sts into another spSp; insert the hook between the elongated bars
of the spSp you work into; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS) - spSp_+2-4 – split Spike stitch into the corner space 2 ahead and 4 rounds
below the next st - spSp_-2-4 – split Spike stitch into the corner space 2 behind and 4 rounds
below the next st
Apply to all legs of the Ldc_Star5:
Pull the loop up to the height of the current round
- Ldc_Star5 – 5 long double crochet legs combined into 1 st with
- leg 1: in FLO of the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st (C/green stm) and
- leg 2: in FLO of the st 1 behind and 3 rounds below the next st (B/blue stm) and
- leg 3: in FLO of the st 4 rounds below the next st (A / red stm) and
- leg 4: in FLO of the st 1 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st (B/blue stm) and
- leg 5: in FLO of the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (C green stm)
- dc_+1-2 in FLO – double crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds
below the next st (D/orange stm) - dc_-1-2 in FLO – double crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds
below the next st (D/orange stm)
Round 16: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
sc, Spst_0-3, 2 sc, spSp_-2-4, sc,
Ldc_Star5, 2 sc, spSp_+2-2, sc, psc, sc,
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc, dc_-1-2 in FLO, sc, psc, sc, spSp_-2-2, 2 sc,
Ldc_Star5, sc, spSp_+2-4, 2 sc, Spst_0-3, sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 31 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitches in Round 17:
- Spst_+1-2 – Spike st into the corner space 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
- Spst_-1-2 – Spike st into the corner space 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
Round 17: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
sc, Spst_-1-2, 13 sc, sc in BLO, 13 sc, Spst_+1-2, sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 33 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Optional stitch marker placement for Round 18:
- Colour A in the free FL of the st from Round 16
Special Stitches in Round 18:
- psc – picot single crochet – insert hook in next st, yo and pull through (2 loops on hook),
ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times) (2 loops on hook),
yo and pull through 2 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front) - Spst_0-3 – Spike st into the corner space 3 rounds below the next st
- spSp_-2-2/spSp_+3-2/<2tog – 2 split Spike stitches together with
- leg 1: into the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st and
- leg 2: into the st 3 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
spSp_-3-2/spSp_+2-2/<2tog – 2 split Spike stitches together with
- leg 1: into the st 3 behind and 2 rounds below the next st and
- leg 2: into the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
(you work these sts into another spSp; insert the hook between the elongated bars
of the spSp you work into; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS)
- dc_+1-2 in FLO – double crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds
below the next st (A/red stm) - dc_-1-2 in FLO – double crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds
below the next st (A/red stm)
Skip 1 st behind each dc in FLO
Round 18: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
sc, Spst_0-3, 6 sc, spSp_-2-2/spSp_+3-2/<2tog, 2 sc, (psc, sc) twice,
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, (sc, psc) twice,
2 sc, spSp_-3-2/spSp_+2-2/<2tog, 6 sc, Spst_0-3, sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 35 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Optional stitch marker placement for Round 19:
- Colour A in the free FL of the st from Round 17
Special Stitches in Round 19:
- psc – picot single crochet – insert hook in next st, yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times) (2 loops on hook),
yo and pull through 2 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front)
- Spst_+1-2 – Spike st into the corner space 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
- Spst_-1-2 – Spike st into the corner space 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
- spSp_+1-2 – split Spike stitch into the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
- spSp_-1-2 – split Spike stitch into the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
(One of each spSp sts are worked into the same st; insert the hook between the vertical bars of the st for the spSp sts; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop
on the WS) - dc_+1-2 in FLO – double crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds
below the next st (A/red stm) - dc_-1-2 in FLO – double crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds
below the next st (A/red stm) - fpdtr_+2-3 – front post double treble around the st 2 ahead and 3 rounds
below the next st - fpdtr_-2-3 – front post double treble around the st 2 behind and 3 rounds
below the next st
Skip 1 st behind each dc in FLO and fpdtr
Round 19: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
sc, spSp_-1-2, 2 sc, spSp_+1-2, sc, spSp_-1-2, 2 sc, psc, 4 sc,
fpdtr_+2-3, sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, sc, fpdtr_-2-3,
4 sc, psc, 2 sc, spSp_+1-2, sc, spSp_-1-2, 2 sc, spSp_+1-2, sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 37 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Optional stitch marker placement for Round 20:
- Colour A in the free FL of the st from Round 18
Special Stitches in Round 20:
- psc – picot single crochet – insert hook in next st, yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times) (2 loops on hook),
yo and pull through 2 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front)
- Spst_0-3 – Spike st into the corner space 3 rounds below the next st
- spSp_0-3 – split Spike st into the st 3 rounds below the next st
(The spSp will be worked into the same st as the two spSp sts from from previous round; insert the hook between the vertical bars of the st you work into;
the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS)
- dc_+1-2 in FLO – double crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds
below the next st (A/red stm) - dc_-1-2 in FLO – double crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds
below the next st (A/red stm)
Skip 1 st behind each dc in FLO
Round 20: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
sc in BLO, Spst_0-3, 4 sc, spSp_0-3, 5 sc, psc, 4 sc,
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 4 sc,
psc, 5 sc, spSp_0-3, 4 sc, Spst_0-3, sc in BLO] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 39 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Optional stitch marker placements for Round 21:
- Colour A in the middle free FL of the st from Round 19
- Colour C in the first and last free FL of the sts from Round 19
We will continue Claire with Rounds 21 – 35 in Part 2
Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart
You pay for the complete pattern; Part 1 and Part 2 are already in the library; Parts 3 and 4 as well as the photo tutorials for all parts will be delivered as updates
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Purchase each part individually through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop
Spread the expense – get the single parts for the reduced price as they are released
If you want to take pretty pictures, you can block your square.
There are different ways to block a square, which I will write about in a different post.
You can go thrifty or luxurious with your blocking tools* or a mixture of both. Either way, your squares will most likely look straighter with an increased stitch definition when they have been blocked.
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