Hundreds of hours have gone into the creation of this pattern that you can access for free.
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Background Story and Designer's Thoughts
If you are interested in the background story and thoughts about the inspiration for design, colour and choice of stitches used, you can do that here:
Support Your Designer
Get Scottish Cross as part of the discounted pattern bundle, containing S13 – Royal Stag, S14 – Scottish Cross and S21 – Dragonfly (the first of four square pattern contributions by Veronika Gadulová)
The pattern bundle is only available until the 31st of December 2021, so get it now!
Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart
Not on Ravelry?
Purchase Scottish Cross through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop
Image Overlay Crochet Terminology 'Petranese' explained
“Petranese” is the Black Sheep Crochet way of writing Image Overlay Crochet patterns.
If you are not yet familiar with this system, you can study your free copy of Image Overlay Crochet (IOC) terminology ‘Petranese’ explained – Basics document with explanations, instructions and photo tutorials for some special stitches and techniques that is included in the pattern purchase.
Alternatively, check out our library of tutorials:
Video Tutorials
You can find all video tutorials for this and other released squares in my YouTube Channel for Black Sheep Crochet, where you can also subscribe for automatic notification when new videos are uploaded.
All videos are in “Germanised British English US crochet terms Petranese”.
This means I am using Image Overlay Crochet abbreviations based on US crochet terminology, British/Australian speech and grammar for instructions and narrations, ‘spiced’ and ‘enriched’ with germanised expressions due to not being a native English speaker.
NO VIDEO TUTORIAL MAY BE CREATED FROM THIS PATTERN – IN ANY LANGUAGE – WITHOUT THE DESIGNER’S WRITTEN PERMISSION!
Right-handed video
Part 1
Part 2
Left-handed video
Part 1
Part 2
PDF download
As mentioned, hundreds of hours go into the design and creation of the written pattern, charts, photo tutorials, supporting special stitch tutorials, and the videos.
By purchasing the ad-free PDF version of this pattern you support an independent designer and contribute to covering costs for domain, website hosting, email providers, shop features and other technical necessities.
Besides my gratitude and appreciation, you receive the extended written pattern including extra support and features, like visuals, the special overlay crochet chart which is excellent for easy stitch placement reference, a photo tutorial and all the links listed relating to this pattern.
As an EXTRA BONUS, the extended pattern includes a Special Stitches Overview and a “Pattern in a Nutshell“, which is a simplified version of the long pattern, an extremely print friendly version for the IOC experienced crocheter to be used with the special stitches overview.
You can find the pattern in the shop here:
Support Your Designer
Get Scottish Cross as part of the discounted pattern bundle, containing S13 – Royal Stag, S14 – Scottish Cross and S21 – Dragonfly (the first of four square pattern contributions by Veronika Gadulová)
The pattern bundle is only available until the 31st of December 2021, so get it now!
Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart
Not on Ravelry?
Purchase Scottish Cross through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop
Translations
This patterns is currently only available in Image Overlay Crochet terminology based on US terms.
There are plans to have it translated into different languages later on. If you are experienced and would like to support the translations, please contact the designer.
THIS PATTERN MUST NOT BE TRANSLATED INTO ANOTHER LANGUAGE (EXCEPT FOR YOUR OWN PERSONAL USE) WITHOUT THE DESIGNER’S WRITTEN PERMISSION!
What you will need
If you have made any of the other Wrapped in Jamie squares , you have an approximate idea of the amount you need for one square.
Claire is as big as four squares including the square border, so it will require approximately the same amount of yarn. Make sure you are rather on the generous site when calculating your yardage.
If this is your first Wrapped in Jamie design, you can get a general idea about yarn requirements here:
Wrapped in Jamie squares Yarn requirements
Here are a few yarn statistics from myself and the testers:
Yarn | Hook | Grams | Meters/Yards | Size |
---|---|---|---|---|
Cascade 220 200m/220yds/100g | 4mm USG/6 | 55g 1.9oz | 110m 120yds | 23 x 23 cm 9 x 9" |
Stylecraft Special DK 295m/100g | 4mm US G/6 | 44g 1.6oz | 130m 142yds | 25 x 25cm 10 x 10" |
Lincraft Makr Cotton 8 100m/109yds/50g | 4mm US G/6 | 54g 1.9oz | 108m 120yds | 22 x 22cm 8 ¾” x 8 ¾” |
Brava Worsted 200m/218yds/100g | 4.5mm US G-H/7 | 80g 2.8oz | 160m 175yds | 29 x 29cm 11 ½ x 11 ½ “ |
You will also need
- scissors
- darning needle to weave in ends
- stitch markers* (some optional, some highly recommended; this could even be yarn scrap, a hair pin or a paperclip) – if you choose to use stitch markers, it will be good to have at least 4 different colours. And lots of them 😉
Reminder and Important Pattern Notes
Skipping stitches
For each special stitch you make in front, behind, around or in the front loop of another stitch from a previous round, you must leave the stitch behind or in front of the special stitch unworked (skip 1 stitch) unless instructed otherwise. A reminder to skip those stitches will be written under the special stitches for each round, not within the pattern instructions. If more than one special stitch has been worked and therefore more than one stitch needs to be skipped, a reminder is included in the pattern instructions.
It is not necessary to skip a stitch when the special stitch is being worked over a stitch and therefore envelopes it, as it is for example the case with spike and split spike stitches, hdc-arounds or psc and psc-x.
While we skip a stitch behind a long front post stitch, a front post single crochet does not leave a lot of room for skipping (although technically we still skip at least the top loops of the stitch we fpsc around).
The main objective here is to avoid unnecessary increases, so please keep that in mind.
Ch1 and slip stitch
The ch1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch and will be skipped when we slip stitch into the first stitch at the end of each round.
Keep the slip stitch that closes the round loose as it will replace the stitch below as the last stitch of the next round.
Stitch markers
The use of stitch markers* is optional and mainly intended to encourage and support less experienced crocheters. If finding free front loops is easy for you, you are likely to be quicker crocheting without stitch markers.
- ‘Optional’ stitch markers*placements are suggested for the adventurous beginner and may not be necessary for intermediate and advanced crocheters.
- ‘Suggested’ stitch markers* placements are considered beneficial or essential for correct and easy stitch placement for all crochet levels.
If you follow the suggested stitch markers* placements, take the stitch markers out of the stitch or front loop after the special stitches have been worked, unless instructed otherwise.
Support Your Designer
Get Scottish Cross as part of the discounted pattern bundle, containing S13 – Royal Stag, S14 – Scottish Cross and S21 – Dragonfly (the first of four square pattern contributions by Veronika Gadulová)
The pattern bundle is only available until the 31st of December 2021, so get it now!
Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart
Not on Ravelry?
Purchase Scottish Cross through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop
Pattern
Underlined and coloured special stitches lead to a video tutorial related to it. You can find a list of our growing tutorial library here.
Begin with a Magic Circle (MC) or Double Magic Circle (DMC).
If you are unfamiliar with the MC / DMC or don’t want to use it and you don’t mind the hole in the middle of the square, you can start with 2 ch and crocheting Round 1 into the first ch.
Round 1: Ch2 (does not count as a st), 8 hdc into the MC/DMC/circle, close MC/DMC/circle tightly, skip the ch2, ss into the first hdc or close the round with an invisible join. – 8 sts
Hint: If you crochet over the loose tail for a few rounds, you won’t have to weave it in later. Changing the tail’s direction with each round or side will make it more secure.
Round 2: Ch1 or rejoin yarn in the 3rd loop of any hdc, (sc, ch2, sc) in the same st as ch1 or join, sc, ((sc, ch2, sc) in the 3rd loop of the next st, sc in 3rd loop) 3 times
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 3 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Optional stitch marker placement:
- Colour A/red in the free FL of the sc from Round 1
Special Stitches in Round 3:
- fphtr-corner-1 – (sc into the ch2 corner sp, ch1, fphtr between the sc around the ch2 corner sp below, ch1, sc into the ch2 corner)
- htr_+1-1 in FLO – half treble in the front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 1 round below
- fphtr-anc_-1-1 – front post half treble around the st anchored 1 behind and 1 round below
Skip 1 st behind each special st.
Round 3:
Ch1, [fphtr-corner-1, htr_+1-1 in FLO, sc in BLO, htr-anc-1-1] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 6 sts per side plus 2 ch1 corner spaces
Special Stitches in Round 4:
- fphtr-corner-2 – (sc into the first ch1 corner sp, ch1, front post half treble around the htr 1 round below, ch1, sc into the second ch1 corner space)
- dcbb – double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below
- fphtr_+1-1 – front post half treble around the st 1 ahead and 1 round below
- fphtr_-1-1 – front post half treble around the st 1 behind and 1 round below
Skip 1 st (corner: the ch2) behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st.
Round 4: Ch1, [fphtr-corner-2, fphtr_+1-1, dcbb, sc, dcbb, fphtr_-1-1] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 8 sts per side plus 2 ch1 corner spaces
Round 5
Special Stitches in Round 5:
- 2tog-A – dcbb/fpdc/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– leg 1: a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below and
– leg 2: a front post double crochet around the st below - 2tog-B – fpdc/dcbb/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– leg 1: a front post double crochet around the st below and
– leg 2: a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below
Skip 1 st behind each special st.
Round 5: Ch1, [sc into the first ch1 corner space, ch2, sc into the second ch1 corner space, sc, 2tog-A, 3 sc, 2tog-B, sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 9 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Support Your Designer
Get Scottish Cross as part of the discounted pattern bundle, containing S13 – Royal Stag, S14 – Scottish Cross and S21 – Dragonfly (the first of four square pattern contributions by Veronika Gadulová)
The pattern bundle is only available until the 31st of December 2021, so get it now!
Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart
Not on Ravelry?
Purchase Scottish Cross through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop
Special Stitches in Round 6:
- fphtr-2_-1-1 – front post half treble around leg 2 of the st 1 ahead and 1 round below (= fpdc leg of 2tog-A from previous round)
- fphtr-L/1_+1-1 – front post half treble from left (left-handers: from right) around leg 1 of the st 1 ahead and 1 round below (= fpdc leg of 2tog-B from previous round)
Skip 1 st behind each special st.
Round 6: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc in BLO, 2 sc, fphtr-2_-1-1, sc, fphtr-L/1_+1-1, 2 sc, sc in BLO] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 11 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Optional stitch marker placement:
- Colour A/red in the free FL of the sts from Round 5
Special Stitches in Round 7:
- dcbb – double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below
- tr_+2-2 in FLO – treble in front loop only of the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below
(Colour A / red stm) - tr_-2-2 in FLO – treble in front loop only of the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below
(Colour A / red stm) - fpdtr_+1-3 – front post double treble around the st 1 ahead and 3 rounds below
(= fphtr in the corner from Round 4) - fpdtr_-1-3 – front post double treble around the st 1 behind and 3 rounds below
(= fphtr in the corner from Round 4)
Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st.
Tip: For symmetry and conformity with the other sides, work the fpdtr_-1-3 on the last side under the one that is already there.
Round 7: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, fpdtr_+1-3, 2 sc, tr_-2-2 in FLO, dcbb, sc, dcbb, tr_+2-2 in FLO, 2 sc, fpdtr_-1-3] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 13 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitches in Round 8:
- dcbb – double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below
- tr_0-3 in FLO – treble in front loop only of the st 3 rounds below
- fpdtr-L_+4-2 – front post double treble from left (left-handers: from right) around the st 4 ahead and 2 rounds below
- fpdtr-U_-4-2 – front post double treble around the st 4 behind and 2 rounds below under the st it is crossing
Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special stitch.
Round 8: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc, dcbb, tr_0-3 in FLO, fpdtr-L+4-2, dcbb, 3 sc, dcbb, fpdtr-U_-4-2, tr_0-3 in FLO, dcbb, sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 15 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitches in Round 9:
- hdcbb-x – half double crochet into the top loops of the next st AND the top loops of the st behind and (2 rounds) below
- dcbb – double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below
- fptr_+1-2 – front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below
- fptr_-1-2 – front post treble around the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below
- fptr-U_+1-2 – front post treble under the st it is crossing around the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below
Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st.
Round 9: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc, fptr_+1-2, sc, dcbb, hdcbb-x, sc, fptr_-1-2, sc, fptr-U_+1-2, sc, hdcbb-x, dcbb, sc, fptr_-1-2, sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 17 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Round 10
Special Stitches in Round 10:
- dcbb – double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below
- fptr_+2-2 – front post treble around the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below
- fptr_-2-2 – front post treble around the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below
Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special stitch.
Round 10: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,2 sc, dcbb, fptr_+2-2, 3 sc, dcbb, sc, dcbb, 3 sc, fptr_-2-2, dcbb, 2 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 19 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Support Your Designer
Get Scottish Cross as part of the discounted pattern bundle, containing S13 – Royal Stag, S14 – Scottish Cross and S21 – Dragonfly (the first of four square pattern contributions by Veronika Gadulová)
The pattern bundle is only available until the 31st of December 2021, so get it now!
Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart
Not on Ravelry?
Purchase Scottish Cross through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop
Special Stitches in Round 11:
- dcbb – double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below
- fptr_+1-2 – front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below
- fptr_-1-2 – front post treble around the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below
- fptr_0-3 – front post treble around the st 3 rounds below
- fptr-U_0-3 – front post treble under the st it is crossing around the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below
Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st.
Round 11: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,2 sc, fptr_+1-2, sc, dcbb, fptr-U_0-3, 7 sc, fptr_0-3, dcbb, sc, fptr_-1-2, 2 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 21 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitches in Round 12:
- dcbb – double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below
- fptr_+1-2 – front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below
- fptr_-1-2 – front post treble around the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below
- fptr_0-3 – front post treble around the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below
Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st.
Round 12: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 3 sc, dcbb, fptr_+1-2, sc, dcbb, 2 sc, fptr_0-3, sc, fptr_0-3, 2 sc, dcbb, sc, fptr_-1-2, dcbb, 3 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 23 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitches in Round 13:
- hdcbb-x – half double crochet into the top loops of the next st AND the top loops of the st behind and (2 rounds) below
- dcbb – double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below
- fptr_+1-2 – front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below
- fptr_-1-2 – front post treble around the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below
- fptr-L_+1-2 – front post treble from left (left-handers: from right) around the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below
Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st.
Round 13: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 3 sc, fptr_+1-2, sc, dcbb, 2 sc, fptr_-1-2, (sc, hdcbb-x) twice, sc, fptr-L_+1-2, 2 sc, dcbb, sc, fptr_-1-2, 3 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 25 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitches in Round 14:
- hdcbb-x – half double crochet into the top loops of the next st AND the top loops of the st behind and (2 rounds) below
- dcbb – double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below
- fptr_+1-2 – front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below
- fptr-L_+1-2 – front post treble from left (left-handers: from right) around the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below
- fptr_-1-2 – front post treble around the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below
Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st.
Round 14: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 4 sc, dcbb, fptr_+1-2, 3 sc, hdcbb-x, fptr-L_+1-2, 3 sc, fptr_-1-2, hdcbb-x, 3 sc, fptr_-1-2, dcbb, 4 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 27 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Round 15
Special Stitches in Round 15:
- dcbb – double crochet into the top loops of the st behind and (2 rounds) below
- fptr_+1-2 – front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below
- 2tog-C – fptr-1-2/dcbb/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– leg 1: a front post treble around the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below (= ftr_-1-2 from Round 13) and
– leg 2: a double crochet into the top loops of the st behind and (2 rounds) below - 2tog-D – dcbb/fptr-L_+1-2/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– leg 1: a double crochet into the top loops of the st behind and (2 rounds) below and
– leg 2: a front post treble from left (left-handers: from right) around the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below (= fptr-L_+1-2 from Round 13)
Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st (does not apply to 2tog-C / tog-D).
Round 15: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 4 sc, fptr_+1-2, sc, dcbb, 4 sc, 2tog-C, 3 sc, 2tog-D, 4 sc, dcbb, sc, fptr_-1-2, 4 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 29 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Support Your Designer
Get Scottish Cross as part of the discounted pattern bundle, containing S13 – Royal Stag, S14 – Scottish Cross and S21 – Dragonfly (the first of four square pattern contributions by Veronika Gadulová)
The pattern bundle is only available until the 31st of December 2021, so get it now!
Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart
Not on Ravelry?
Purchase Scottish Cross through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop
Special Stitches in Round 16:
- dcbb – double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below
- fptr-U_+2-2 – front post treble under the st it is crossing around the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below
- fptr_-2-2 – front post treble around the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below
Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st.
Round 16: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 5 sc, dcbb, 4 sc, fptr-U_+2-2, 7 sc, fptr_-2-2, 4 sc, dcbb, 5 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 31 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitches in Round 17:
- hdcbb-x – half double crochet into the top loops of the next st AND the top loops of the st behind and (2 rounds) below
- fptr_0-2 – front post treble around the st 2 rounds below
- 2tog-E – fptr_-0-3/fptr_+3-1/<2tog – 2 front post treble together with
– leg 1: around the st 3 rounds below and
– leg 2: around the st 3 ahead and 1 round below - 2tog-F – fptr_-3-1/fptr_0-3/<2tog – 2 front post treble together with
– leg 1: around the st 3 behind and 1 round below and
– leg 2: around the st 3 rounds below - 2tog-G – fptr_-2-2/fptr-L_+2-2/<2tog – 2 front post treble together with
– leg 1: around the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below and
– leg 2: from left (left-handers: from right) around the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below
Skip 1 st behind each special st.
Round 17: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 6 sc, fptr_0-2, sc, 2tog-E, 2 sc, hdcbb-x, 3 sc, 2tog-G, 3 sc, hdcbb-x, 2 sc, 2tog-F, sc, fptr_0-2, 6 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 33 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitches in Round 18:
- dcbb – double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below
- 2tog-A – dcbb/fpdc/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– leg 1: a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below and
– leg 2: a front post double crochet around the st below - 2tog-B – fpdc/dcbb/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– leg 1: a front post double crochet around the st below and
– leg 2: a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below - 2tog-H – dcbb/fpsc/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– leg 1: a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below and
– leg 2: a front post single crochet around the st below
Skip 1 st behind each special st.
Round 18: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 7 sc, dcbb, sc, 2tog-B, 6 sc, 2tog-H, 6 sc, 2tog-A, sc, dcbb, 7 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 35 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Support Your Designer
Get Scottish Cross as part of the discounted pattern bundle, containing S13 – Royal Stag, S14 – Scottish Cross and S21 – Dragonfly (the first of four square pattern contributions by Veronika Gadulová)
The pattern bundle is only available until the 31st of December 2021, so get it now!
Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart
Not on Ravelry?
Purchase Scottish Cross through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop
Before moving on to Round 19, you will have a major decision to make:
- Finishing the square without adding a Square Border OR
- Finishing the square with a Square Border
1 – Finishing the square without a Square Border
If you do not want to add a Square Border, you have different options for finishing your last two rounds, depending on the look you want to achieve.
Closed cross arm
For this effect, follow instructions for Round 19-1
Open cross arm
For this effect, follow instructions for Round 19-2
Special Stitches in Round 19-1 (closed cross arm):
- 2tog-I – fptr_0-2/dtr_+3-1 in FLO/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– leg 1: a front post treble around the st 2 rounds below and
– leg 2: a double treble in the front loop only of the st 3 ahead and 1 round below - 2tog-J – fptr-anc-2_-3-1/dtr_+3-1 in FLO/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– leg 1: a front post treble around the base of leg 2 anchored 3 sts behind and 1 round below and
– leg 2: a double treble in the front loop only of the st 3 ahead and 1 round below - 2tog-K – fptr-anc-2_-3-1/fptr_0-2/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– leg 1: a front post treble around the base of leg 2 anchored 3 behind and 1 round below and
– leg 2: a front post treble around the st 2 rounds below
Skip 1 st behind each special st.
Round 19-1: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 8 sc, 2tog-I, (2 sc, sc in BLO, 2 sc, 2tog-J) twice, 2 sc, sc in BLO, 2 sc, 2tog-K, 8 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 37 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitch in Round 19-2 (open cross arm):
- fptr_0-2 – front post treble around the st 2 rounds below
Round 19-2: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,8 sc, fptr_0-2, 17 sc, fptr_0-2, 8 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 37 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Considerations before working Round 20
If you don’t intend to add a Square Border but want to create
- a distinctive ‘frame’ around your square,
- work Round 20-1.1 if you made a closed cross arm and
- Round 20-1.2 if you worked an open cross arm;
- an ‘open end’ square (no frame) with
- a closed cross arm work Round 20-2.1
- an open cross arm work Round 20-2.2
- a mixture of both, work Round 20-3.
Please refer to the tables below with pictures and instructions for each of the above mentioned options. Begin the round for each option with “Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,”, followed by the respective instructions for the rest of the side, and finish with an invisible join.
Special Stitches in Round 20:
- 2TOG-A – dcbb/fpdc/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– leg 1: a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below and
– leg 2: a front post double crochet around the st below - 2TOG-B – fpdc/dcbb/<2tog – 2 sts together with
– leg 1: a front post double crochet around the st below and
– leg 2: a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below - hdcbb-x – half double crochet into the top loops of the next st AND the top loops of the st behind and (2 rounds) below
Round 20: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space,
9 sc in 3rd loop, 2TOG-A, (5 sc, hdcbb-x) twice, 5 sc, 2TOG-B, 9 sc in 3rd loop] 4 times.
– 1.1 frame, closed cross arm
Work Round 20-1.1
9 sc in 3rd loop, 2TOG-A, (5 sc, hdcbb-x) twice, 5 sc, 2TOG-B, 9 sc in 3rd loop] 4 times.
– 1.2 frame, open cross arm
Work Round 20-1.2.a OR
Round 20-1.2.b (shown in pic.)
20-2.1: 9 sc, 2TOG-A, (5 sc, hdcbb-x) twice, 5 sc, 2TOG-B, 9 sc] 4 times.
20-2.2.a: 9 sc, 2TOG-A, 17 sc, 2TOG-B, 9 sc] 4 times.
20-2.2.b: 37 sc] 4 times.
– 2.1 open end, closed cross arm
Work Round 20-2.1 (pic.) OR
– 2.2 open end, open cross arm
Work Round 20-2.2.a or
Round 20-2.2.b
9 sc, 19 sc in 3rd loop, 9 sc] 4 times.
– 3. open end outside the cross arm, frame above open cross arm
Fasten off and close with an invisible join. – 39 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Weave in the ends.
Congratulations, your Square 14 – Scottish Cross is now finished 🙂
2 – Continuing the square with a Square Border
If you do intend to add a Square Border, you can choose between four options in Season 2:
- BSC Square Border “Jamie, Claire and Frank” from Season 1 (SB1)
(free pattern on web page as part of the CAL – PDF version available for purchase January 2022) - BSC Square Border “Scotland” designed for Season 2 (SB2)
(free pattern on web page as part of the CAL – PDF version available for purchase in the shop) - Square Border “Plants and Herbs” designed by Veronika Gadulova of Tkanee (SB3) (free pattern on web page as part of the CAL – PDF version available for purchase in the shop)
- BSC Square Border “Scottish Cross” designed specifically for this square (SB14) (additional Square Border option – PDF available for purchase January 2022)
To continue with any of the Square Borders SB1, SB2 or SB3 above, work either
Round 19-1 or 19-2 and follow with the respective suggestions for Round 20.
2.a) Working the border with the same colour:
Finish Round 19 with a ss into the first sc of the starting corner.
Work any of the finishing options for Round 20 above.
Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 39 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Continue with Round 21 as instructed in the border of your choice.
2.b) Working the border with a different colour:
Finish Round 19 by fastening off and closing with an invisible join.
Join the new colour, then work any of the finishing options for Round 20 below.
If you join the new colour with a standing st, omit the ch1 at the beginning of Round 20.
Continue according to the instructions for the respective border you want to add.
The Scottish Cross Square Border (SB14) includes two different designs for the middle section (A – separated or B – continued) and four different ways to work the corner (open or closed, 45° or 90°), plus an adjustment for an additional element to the beginning and the cross arms within the square, which allow for a multitude of final looks.
Round 20 will be worked differently for each of those looks, so please omit Round 20 until you made your choice (see samples below). You will find instructions on how to work Round 20 (the last Round of the square, respectively the first round of the square border) to achieve your preferred look in the Scottish Cross Square Border pattern (available January 2022).
However, if you are keen, and know which look you want to go for, you can work the applicable Round 20 option as stated below.
SB14-A1: Frame, open cross arm, square/border separation, middle section A, closed 45° corner
(Round 19.2 and 20-1.b)
SB14-A2: Frame, closed cross arm, square/border continuation, middle section B, closed 45° corner
(Round 19.1 and 20-1.1)
SB14-A3: Open end, open cross arm, square/border separation, middle section A, closed 45° corner
(Round 19.2 and 20-3)
SB14-A4: Open end, closed cross arm, square/border continuation, middle section B, closed 45° corner
(Round 19.1 and 20-2.1)
All 4 versions above at a glance with an impression of the complete square made with Scottish Cross Border corner version A
The square with adjustments to the beginning and the cross arms with square border ‘Scotland’
SB14-B: Frame, closed cross arm, middle section A, 2 x closed, 2 x open corner version B
Support Your Designer
Get Scottish Cross as part of the discounted pattern bundle, containing S13 – Royal Stag, S14 – Scottish Cross and S21 – Dragonfly (the first of four square pattern contributions by Veronika Gadulová)
The pattern bundle is only available until the 31st of December 2021, so get it now!
Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart
Not on Ravelry?
Purchase Scottish Cross through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop
If you want to take pretty pictures, you can block your square.
There are different ways to block a square, which I will write about in a different post.
You can go thrifty or luxurious with your blocking tools* or a mixture of both. Either way, your squares will most likely look straighter with an increased stitch definition when they have been blocked.
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Support Your Designer
Get Scottish Cross as part of the discounted pattern bundle, containing S13 – Royal Stag, S14 – Scottish Cross and S21 – Dragonfly (the first of four square pattern contributions by Veronika Gadulová)
The pattern bundle is only available until the 31st of December 2021, so get it now!
Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart
Not on Ravelry?
Purchase Scottish Cross through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop