WIJ CAL Claire Square Part 3 Pattern

Table of Contents

Hundreds of hours have gone into the creation of this pattern that you can access for free.

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Are you a total beginner and need to learn some crochet basics? Craftsy* have lots of awesome tutorials that will get you ready to attempt this pattern with confidence. Get started with the link below or with some basic crochet here.

Background Story and Designer's Thoughts

If you are interested in the background story and thoughts about the inspiration for design, colour and choice of stitches used, you can do that here:

Season 2 Wrapped in Jamie – Claire’s Background Story

Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart 
Your purchase includes all parts for the pattern; Part 1 and Part 2 are already in the library; Parts 3 and 4 as well as the photo tutorials for all parts will be delivered as updates.

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Purchase each part individually through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop 
Spread the expense – get the single parts for the reduced price as they are released

Claire Part 1
Claire Part 2
Claire Part 3
Claire Part 4 (coming January 2021)

'Petranese' explained

“Petranese” is the Black Sheep Crochet way of writing overlay crochet patterns. 

If you are not yet familiar with this system, you can download your free copy of the ‘Petranese’ explained – Basics with explanations, instructions and photo tutorials for some special stitches here (also included in the pattern purchase):

Alternatively, visit the online version ‘Petranese’ explained Tutorial series

Video Tutorials

You can find all video tutorials for this and other released squares in my YouTube Channel for Black Sheep Crochet, where you can also subscribe for automatic notification when new videos are uploaded.

All videos are  in “Germanised British English US crochet terms Petranese”.

This means I am using US crochet terminology within ‘Petranese’, British/Australian speech and grammar for instructions and narrations, ‘spiced’ and ‘enriched’ with germanised expressions due to not being a native English speaker. 

NO VIDEO TUTORIAL MAY BE CREATED FROM THIS PATTERN – IN ANY LANGUAGE – WITHOUT THE DESIGNER’S WRITTEN PERMISSION!

The videos will apear below as soon as they have been uploaded. I am currently still recording and editing them.

Right-handed video

Left-handed video

PDF download

As mentioned, hundreds of hours go into the design and creation of the written pattern, charts, photo tutorials, supporting special stitch tutorials, and the videos. 

By purchasing the ad-free PDF version of this pattern you support an independent designer and contribute to covering costs for domain, website hosting, email providers, shop features and other technical necessities. 

Besides my gratitude and appreciation, you receive the written pattern including extra support and features, like visuals, the special overlay crochet chart which is excellent for easy stitch placement reference, a photo tutorial* and all the links listed relating to this pattern.

(*the photo tutorial for this specific pattern will come to you as a pattern update as soon as it is ready)

You can find the pattern in the shop here:

Season 2 Wrapped in Jamie CAL – Claire Square Part 3

Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart 
Your purchase includes all parts for the pattern; Part 1 and Part 2 are already in the library; Parts 3 and 4 as well as the photo tutorials for all parts will be delivered as updates.

Not on Ravelry?

Purchase each part individually through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop 
Spread the expense – get the single parts for the reduced price as they are released.

Claire Part 1
Claire Part 2
Claire Part 3
Claire Part 4 (coming January 2021)

Photo Tutorial

Coming in January 2021!

In order to ensure the best possible website performance, this pattern will only display a limited number of tutorial pictures. A detailed photo tutorial is available as part of the PDF pattern (added as an update).

Translations

This patterns is currently only available in Germanised British English US crochet terms Petranese.

There are plans to have it translated into different languages later on. If you are experienced and would like to support the translations, please contact the designer.

THIS PATTERN MUST NOT BE TRANSLATED INTO ANOTHER LANGUAGE (EXCEPT FOR YOUR OWN PERSONAL USE) WITHOUT THE DESIGNER’S WRITTEN PERMISSION!

Are you a total beginner and need to learn some crochet basics? Craftsy* have lots of awesome tutorials that will get you ready to attempt this pattern with confidence. Get started with the link below

What you will need

If you have made any of the other Wrapped in Jamie squares , you have an approximate idea of the amount you need for one square. 

Claire is as big as four squares including the square border, so it will require approximately the same amount of yarn. Make sure you are rather on the generous site when calculating your yardage.

If this is your first Wrapped in Jamie design, you can get a general idea about yarn requirements here:

Wrapped in Jamie squares Yarn requirements

You will also need

Claire Part 1 (Rounds 1-20)
Claire Part 2 (Rounds 21 – 35)

  • scissors
  • darning needle to weave in ends
  • stitch markers* (optional, but highly recommended, this could even be yarn scrap, a hair pin or a paperclip) – if you choose to use stitch markers, it will be good to have at least 4 different colours. And lots of them 😉

Reminder and Important Pattern Notes (some new for Part 3)

Skipping stitches

For each special stitch you make in front, behind, around or in the front loop of another stitch from a previous round, you must leave the stitch behind or in front of the special stitch unworked (skip 1 stitch) unless instructed otherwise. A reminder to skip those stitches will be written under the special stitches for each round, not within the pattern instructions. If more than one special stitch has been worked and therefore more than one stitch needs to be skipped, a reminder is included in the pattern instructions. 

It is not necessary to skip a stitch when the special stitch is being worked over a stitch and therefore envelopes it, as it is for example the case with spike and split spike stitches, hdc-arounds or psc and psc-x.

While we skip a stitch behind a long front post stitch, a front post single crochet does not leave a lot of room for skipping (although technically we still skip at least the top loops of the stitch we fpsc around). 

The main objective here is to avoid unnecessary increases, so please keep that in mind.  

Ch1 and slip stitch

The ch1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch and will be skipped when we slip stitch into the first stitch at the end of each round.

Keep the slip stitch that closes the round loose as it will replace the stitch below as the last stitch of the next round.

Stitch markers

The use of stitch markers* is optional and mainly intended to encourage and support less experienced crocheters. If finding free front loops is easy for you, you are likely to be quicker crocheting without stitch markers. 

    • Optionalstitch markers*placements are suggested for the adventurous beginner and may not be necessary for intermediate and advanced crocheters.
    • Suggestedstitch markers* placements are considered beneficial or essential for correct and easy stitch placement for all crochet levels.

If you follow the suggested stitch markers* placements, take the stitch markers out of the stitch or front loop after the special stitches have been worked, unless instructed otherwise.

Picot Single Crochet

A psc-x is made when the next st is a special stitch where the stitch behind it is skipped. The nature of the psc requires some anchoring, which is achieved by making the variation psc-x. You can make a psc-x (picot single crochet variation) whenever the pattern calls for a regular psc, but not the other way around.

Stitch markers for 

– Rose bud stitches

When working the rose bud, it is helpful to place a st marker in the third loop of the first of three sc in BLO you make to start the rose bud. It will make it easier and quicker to find the correct free FLO to ss into in order to close the st. Leave the st marker in place until you worked over the st in the next round, where you will be crocheting into this third loop or the two main loops of the st (your choice).

– Big Rose

After finishing the big rose, place a st marker in the third loop of the last st. You will be crocheting into this loop when working over the big rose in the next round.

– Spike sts and split Spike sts
When working a long forward Spst or spSp st, place a st marker in the next st you will work into; this will make it easier to find the correct st after you have finished the Spst or spSp st.

Special Corners

Each of the following corners has a set-up corner – the first corner:

– fpdc corner

In the set-up corner, a fptr is worked into the ch2 corner space 2 rounds below (=fptr-c). 

In the next round, a fpdc is worked around the fptr in the corner (= fpdc-c). 

In each following round with a fpdc corner, a fpdc-c is worked around the previous fpdc-c.

– twisted corner

Place a st marker in the top loops of the first sc on the next side. This will ensure that you find the first st to work into. 

In the set-up corner, the first fpdc is worked around the first sc of the next side (= fpdc-sc1) and the second fpdc is worked around the last sc of the previous side. (= fpdc-sc2)

In the next round, the first fpdc is worked around the fpdc-sc2 of the corner in the previous round (=> is now the fpdc-dc1) and the second fpdc is worked – in front of the fpdc-dc1 just made – around the fpdc-sc1 of the same corner (=> is now the fpdc-dc2).

In each following round with a twisted corner, the new fpdc-dc1 is worked around the st that was the fpdc-2 of the previous round and the new fpdc-dc2 is worked around the st that was the fpdc-1 of the previous round of that same corner. You will most likely have to pull the previous fpdc-dc1 out from behind the fpdc you just made in order to be able to work around it properly. This is easiest done using your hook.

Special Stitches used in this pattern

Please note: The special stitches work well for crocheters/crochettes with a ‘normal’ or ‘tight’ tension. If your tension is loose,  you will find that using, for example, tr instead of dtr will give you a cleaner and crisper stitch definition. 

In contrast, if your tension is very tight, please give an extra yarn over when making long stitches.

Special stitches relevant for this pattern are outlined below and specified in more detail above each round.

fptr_corner – (sc, ch1, fptr-c, ch1, sc) into the ch2 corner space; work the fptr-c in front of the ch2 space 1 and 2 rounds below around the ch2 space 3 rounds below (see notes for special corners)

fpdc_corner – (sc, ch1, fpdc-c, ch1, sc) corner; work 1 sc in each ch1 space of the previous round; work the fpdc_c around the fptr-c or fpdc-c 1 round below (see notes for special corners) 

First twisted corner – (fpdc, ch2, fpdc) into the ch2 corner space; work the first fpdc around the first sc of the next side 1 round below, ch2, work the next fpdc – in front of the  previously made fpdc – around the last sc on the previous side 1 round below
(see notes for special corners)

Twisted corner – ((fpdc, ch2, fpdc) into the ch2 corner space; work the first fpdc around the fpdc on the next side 1 round below, ch2, work the next fpdc – in front of the previously made fpdc – around the fpdc on the previous side 1 round below
(see notes for special corners)

pscpicot single crochet – insert hook in next st, yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times, keeping the first loop on the hook) (2 loops on hook), yo and pull through 2 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front) 

Choose the option that is applicable to the split Spike stitch you are about to work:

When working a spSp into a normal st (sc): insert the hook between the vertical bars of the st you work into; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS

When working a spSp into another spSp: insert the hook between the elongated bars of the spSp you work into so that the hook still appears below the 3rd loop on the WS

Spike stitch and split Spike st tutorial

spSp_0-3split Spike st into the st 3 rounds below the next st

spSp_+1-2split Spike stitch into the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st  

spSp_-1-2split Spike stitch into the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st  

spSp_+1-3split Spike stitch into the st 1 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st 

spSp_-1-3split Spike stitch into the st 1 behind and 3 rounds below the next st

spSp_+2-1split Spike stitch into the st 2 ahead and 1 round below the next st

spSp_-2-1split Spike stitch into the st 2 behind and 1 round below the next st

spSp_+2-2split Spike stitch into the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st

spSp_-2-2split Spike stitch into the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st

dcbbdouble crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st  

dc_+1-2 double crochet in the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st  

dc_-1-2 double crochet in the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st  

dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st  

dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st 

tr_0-3treble in the st 3 rounds below the next st 

tr_0-3 in FLOtreble in front loop only  of the st 3 rounds below the next st 

tr_+2-3 in FLOtreble crochet in front loop only of the st 2 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st 

tr_-2-3  in FLOtreble crochet in front loop only of the st 2 behind and 3 rounds below the next st

dtr_0-4double treble in the st 4 rounds below the next st 

dtr_0-4 in FLOdouble treble in front loop only of the st 4 rounds below the next st 

dtr_+3-3 in FLOdouble treble in front loop only of the st 3 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st 

dtr_-3-3 in FLO double treble in front loop only of the st 3 behind and 3 rounds below the next st

dtr_+4-1double treble in the st 4 ahead and 1 round below the next st 

dtr_-4-1double treble in the st 4 behind and 1 round below the next st 

fpdc_cfront post double crochet around the fptr_c or fpdc_c  of the previous round (part of the dc_corner) 

fptr_cfront post treble around the ch2 corner space 2 rounds below the current corner (part of the first dc_corner) 

fptr_+1-2front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st 

fptr_-1-2front post treble around the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st 

fptr_+1-3front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st 

fptr_-1-3front post treble around the st 1 behind and 3 rounds below the next st  

fptr_+2-2front post treble around the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st  

fptr_-2-2front post treble around the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st  

fpdtr_+2-3front post double treble around the st 2 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st 

fpdtr_-2-3front post double treble around the st 2 behind and 3 rounds below the next st 

fpdtr_+3-3front post double treble around the st 3 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st  

fpdtr_-3-3front post double treble around the st 3 behind and 3 rounds below the next st  

fpdtr_+1-4-cfront post double treble around the ch2 corner space 1 st ahead and 4 rounds below the next st

fpdtr_-1-4-cfront post double treble around the ch2 corner space 1 st behind and 4 rounds below the next st

2tog-c – dcbb/dtr_+4-1/>2tog – 2 sts together with  

– leg 1:  a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st 
– leg 2: a double treble in the top loops of the st 4 ahead and 1 round below the next st

2tog-d – dtr_-4-1/dcbb/>2tog2 sts together with  

– leg 1: a double treble in top loops of the st 4 behind and 1 round below the next st and
– leg 2: a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st

2tog-e – dcbb/dtr_+4-1 in FLO>2tog – 2 sts together with  

– leg 1:  a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st 
– leg 2:  a double treble in FLO of the st 4 ahead and 1 round below the next st 

2tog-f – dtr_-4-1 in FLO/dcbb/>2tog2 sts together with  

– leg 1: a double treble in FLO of the st 4 behind and 1 round below the next st and 
– leg 2: a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st 

fpdtr_-3-2/ fptr_+2-2/<2tog 2 front post sts together with 

– leg 1: a double treble around the st 3 behind and 2 rounds below the next st and
– 
leg 2: a treble around the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st

fptr_-2-2/ fpdtr_+3-2/<2tog 2 front post sts together with 

– leg 1: a treble around the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st and
– 
leg 2: a double treble around the st 3 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st 

Rose bud – 3 sc in BLO of the next st, 4 sc in FLO of the same st, ss in the third loop of the first st, continue in the next st; turn your work as you go (see notes for st markers for rose bud stitches

Small Rose – ((dc, ch1) twice, dc) into the FLO of the st 2 rounds below, pull the loop up, remove hook from the loop, insert the hook in the top of the first of the dcs, grab the loop and pull through, ch1 to close the small rose (ch1 is part of the st)  

Big Rose – make a bud (3 sc in BLO of the next st, 4 sc in FLO of the same st); work 2 sc in the 3rd loop of each st around, continue in the next st (see notes for st markers for Big Rose)

Skip 1 stitch behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st (does not apply to the rose bud, Sp sts or spSp sts)

Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart 
Your purchase includes all parts for the pattern; Part 1 and Part 2 are already in the library; Parts 3 and 4 as well as the photo tutorials for all parts will be delivered as updates.

Not on Ravelry?

Purchase each part individually through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop 
Spread the expense – get the single parts for the reduced price as they are released.

Claire Part 1
Claire Part 2
Claire Part 3
Claire Part 4 (coming January 2021)

Pattern Rounds 36 to 50

Special Stitches in Round 36:

  • fptr_corner – (sc, ch1, fptr-c, ch1, sc) into the corner; work the fptr-c in front of the ch2 space 1 and 2 rounds below around the ch2 space 3 rounds below (the same corner into which the last puff sts were worked – corner Round 33) 
  • dcbb double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st
  • dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red – fourth and fifth stm; D/orange first and last three stm)
  • dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red and D/orange stm)
  • fpdtr_+2-3front post double treble around the st 2 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st
  • fpdtr_-2-3front post double treble around the st 2 behind and 3 rounds below the next st

Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) special st

Round 36: Ch1, [fptr-corner, 

2 sc, (dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, sc) 3 times

fpdtr_-2-3, 2 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 4 sc,

dcbb, 19 sc, dcbb, 4 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 2 sc, fpdtr_+2-3, 

(sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO) 3 times, 2 sc ] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
71 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 37 and 38: 

  • Colour A in the fourth and fifth free FL of the sts from Round 35 
  • Colour D in the first three and last three free FLs of the sts from Round 35

Special Stitches in Round 37:

    • fpdc-corner – (sc, ch1, fpdc-c, ch1, sc) corner; work 1 sc in each ch1 space of the previous round; work the fpdc_c around the fptr-c 1 round below (see notes for special corners)
    • dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red stm)
    • dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red stm) 
    • fptr_0-3-xfront post treble around the ch2 corner space 3 rounds below the next st 
    • Small Rose – ((dc, ch1) twice, dc) into the FLO of the st 2 rounds below, pull the loop up, remove hook from the loop, insert the hook in the top of the first of the dcs, grab the loop and pull through, ch1 to close the small rose (ch1 is part of the st) (D/orange stm) 
    • Rose bud – 3 sc in BLO of the next st, 4 sc in FLO of the same st, ss in the FLO of the first st, continue in the next st; turn your work as you go; (see notes for st markers for rose bud stitches

Skip 1 st behind each special st (does not apply to the rose bud)

Note: If you have placed a st marker (Colour A/red) in the previous round, don’t remove it after working the dcs in these FLs; you will be working into them again.

– When working the rose bud, place a st marker in the BLO of the first of three sc in BLO you make to start the rose bud. It will make it easier to find the free FLO to ss into in order to close the st. Leave the st marker in until you worked over the st in the next round. You will be working in the BLO of that first of three sts in the BLO. 

Round 37: Ch1, [fpdc-corner, 

sc in BLO, fptr_0-3-x, 2 sc, (small rose, 3 sc) 3 times, 2sc, 

dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 6 sc, 

(rose bud, 3 sc) 4 times, rose bud, 6 sc, 

dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 5 sc, 

(small rose, 3  sc) twice, small rose, 2 sc, fptr_0-3-x, sc in BLO] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
73 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 38: 

  • Colour C in the free FL of the sts from Round 36

Special Stitches in Round 38:

  • fpdc-corner – (sc, ch1, fpdc-c, ch1, sc) corner; work 1 sc in each ch1 space of the previous round; work the fpdc_c around the fpdc-c 1 round below
    (see notes for special corners)
  • dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (C/green stm)
  • dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st (C/green stm) 
  • tr_0-3treble in the st 3 rounds below the next st (C/green stm) 
  • tr_0-3 in FLOtreble in front loop only of the st 3 rounds below the next st (A/red stm; work the tr between the dcs from 1 round below)
  • dtr_0-4double treble in the st 4 rounds below the next st  (C/green stm)
  • fptr_+2-2front post treble around the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
  • fptr_-2-2front post treble around the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st 
  • fpdtr_+3-3front post double treble around the st 3 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st
  • fpdtr_-3-3front post double treble around the st 3 behind and 3 rounds below the next st

Skip 1 st behind each special st 

Round 38: Ch1, [fpdc-corner, 

dc_+1-2 in FLO, 17 sc, fptr_-2-2, sc, tr_0-3 in FLO, 2 sc, fpdtr_+3-3, 

2 sc, tr_0-3, 3 sc, (dtr_0-4, 3 sc) 4 times

tr_0-3, 2 sc, fpdtr_-3-3, 2 sc, tr_0-3 in FLO, 

sc, fptr_+2-2, 17 sc, dc_-1-2 in FLO] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
75 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 39 and Round 42: 

  • Colour C in the top loops of the dtr_0-4 and the tr_0-3 made in this round

Special Stitches in Round 39:

  • fpdc-corner – (sc, ch1, fpdc-c, ch1, sc) corner; work 1 sc in each ch1 space of the previous round; work the fpdc_c around the fpdc-c 1 round below (see notes for special corners)
  • dcbb double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st
  • dtr_+4-1double treble in the st 4 ahead and 1 round below the next st (C/green stm)
  • dtr_-4-1double treble in the st 4 behind and 1 round below the next st (C/green stm)
  • 2tog-c – dcbb/dtr_+4-1/>2tog – 2 sts together with  

– leg 1:  a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st 
– leg 2: a double treble in the top loops of the st 4 ahead and 1 round below the next st (C/green stm)

  • 2tog-d – dtr_-4-1/dcbb/>2tog2 sts together with  
    – 
    leg 1: a double treble in top loops of the st 4 behind and 1 round below the next st and
    – leg 2: a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st (C/green stm)

Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st

Note: If you have placed a st marker (Colour C/green) in the top loops of the trebles and double trebles in the previous round, don’t remove them after working the dtr_+/-4-1 into them; you will be working into them again.

– In the first half of the side, you will be working the dtr_+4-1 and the 2tog-c sts, followed by sc; make sure to work these sc behind the special sts, leaving the special sts visible in the front. 

Round 39: Ch1, [fpdc-corner, 

8 sc, (sc in BLO, 3 sc) 3 times, 3 sc, dtr_+4-1, dcbb, 2 sc, 

(2tog-c, 3 sc) twice, (dcbb, 3 sc) twice, 2tog-d, 3 sc, 2tog-d, 2 sc, 

dcbb, dtr_-4-1, 6 sc, (sc in BLO, 3 sc) 3 times, 5 sc] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. – 77 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 40: 

  • Colour D in the free FL of the sts from Round 38 

Suggested stitch marker placements for Round 42: 

  • Colour C in the top loops of the dtr_+/-4-1 sts made in this round

 

Special Stitches in Round 40:

  • fpdc-corner – (sc, ch1, fpdc-c, ch1, sc) corner; work 1 sc in each ch1 space of the previous round; work the fpdc_c around the fpdc-c 1 round below (see notes for special corners)
  • dcbb double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st
  • dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red and B/blue stm)
  • dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st (A /red and B/blue stm) 
  • fptr_+1-2front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
  • fptr_-1-2front post treble around the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st 
  • fptr_+1-3front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st 
  • fptr_-1-3front post treble around the st 1 behind and 3 rounds below the next st
  • fpdtr_-3-2/fptr_+2-2/<2tog 2 front post sts together with 

– leg 1: a double treble around the st 3 behind and 2 rounds below the next st and 
– leg 2: a treble around the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st

  • fptr_-2-2/ fpdtr_+3-2/<2tog 2 front post sts together with 

– leg 1: a treble around the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st and
– leg 2: a double treble around the st 3 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st 

Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st

Note: It will be helpful to work into the top loop of the 2tog-c and 2tog-d sts from the previous round AND ALSO into the two loops laying directly below the top loops in order to better anchor them down (4th, 8th, 20th and 24th sc between the dcbb, indicated with * in the instruction). 

Round 40: Ch1, [fpdc-corner, 

sc, fptr_+1-2, 3 sc, fptr_-1-3, 2 sc, 

(dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, sc) 3 times

2 sc, fptr_-2-2/ fpdtr_+3-2/<2tog, sc, dcbb, 27 sc*, dcbb, 

sc, fpdtr_-3-2/fptr_+2-2/<2tog, 3 sc, 

(dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, sc) 3 times

sc, fptr_+1-3, 3 sc, fptr_-1-2, sc] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
79 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 41: 

Colour D in the first three and last three free FL of the sts from Round 39 and in the top loops of the 2tog sts made in this round

Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart 
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Purchase each part individually through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop 
Spread the expense – get the single parts for the reduced price as they are released.

Claire Part 1
Claire Part 2
Claire Part 3
Claire Part 4 (coming January 2021)

Special Stitches in Round 41:

  • fpdc-corner – (sc, ch1, fpdc-c, ch1, sc) corner; work 1 sc in each ch1 space of the previous round; work the fpdc_c around the fpdc-c 1 round below
    (see notes for special corners)
  • dcbb double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st
  • Small Rose – ((dc, ch1) twice, dc) into the FLO of the st 2 rounds below, pull the loop up, remove hook from the loop, insert the hook in the top of the first of the dcs, grab the loop and pull through, ch1 to close the small rose (ch1 is part of the st) (D/orange stm)
  • Rose bud – 3 sc in BLO of the next st, 4 sc in FLO of the same st, ss in the FLO of the first st, continue in the next st; turn your work as you go; (see notes for st markers for rose bud stitches

Skip 1 st in front of the dcbb

Round 41: Ch1, [fpdc-corner, 

10 sc, (small rose, 3 sc) 3 times, sc, dcbb, 3 sc, (rose bud, 3 sc) 3 times, sc in BLO

(3 sc, rose bud) 3 times, 3 sc, dcbb, 4 sc, (small rose, 3 sc) 3 times, 7 sc] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
81 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 43: 

  • Colour A in the free FL of the st from Round 40

Special Stitches in Round 42:

  • fpdc-corner – (sc, ch1, fpdc-c, ch1, sc) corner; work 1 sc in each ch1 space of the previous round; work the fpdc_c around the fpdc-c 1 round below
    (see notes for special corners)
  • spSp_+2-2split Spike stitch into the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st 
  • spSp_-2-2split Spike stitch into the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st 
  • tr_0-3 treble in the st 3 rounds below the next st (C/green stm) 
  • dtr_0-4double treble in the st 4 rounds below the next st  (C/green stm
  • fptr_+1-2front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
  • fptr_-1-2front post treble around the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st 
  • Small Rose – ((dc, ch1) twice, dc) into the top loops of the st 2 rounds below, pull the loop up, remove hook from the loop, insert the hook in the top of the first of the dcs, grab the loop and pull through, ch1 to close the small rose (ch1 is part of the st) (D/orange stm) 

Skip 1 st behind each special stitch (does not apply to spSp or small rose)

Round 42: Ch1, [fpdc-corner,

spSp_+2-2, sc, fptr_+1-2, 21 sc, small rose, sc, 

tr_0-3, (3 sc, dtr_0-4) twice, 11 sc, (dtr_0-4, 3 sc) twice, tr_0-3, 

sc, small rose, 21 sc, fptr_-1-2, sc, spSp_-2-2] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
83 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Suggested stitch marker placements for Round 43 and Round 46: 

  • Colour C in the top loops of the trebles and double trebles made in this round

Special Stitches in Round 43:

  • fpdc-corner – (sc, ch1, fpdc-c, ch1, sc) corner; work 1 sc in each ch1 space of the previous round; work the fpdc_c around the fpdc-c 1 round below
    (see notes for special corners)
  • spSt_+1-2split Spike st into the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
  • spSp_-1-2split Spike st into the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st 
  • dtr_+3-3 in FLOdouble treble in front loop only of the st 3 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st (A/red stm)
  • dtr_-3-3 in FLO double treble in front loop only of the st 3 behind and 3 rounds below the next st (A/red stm)
  • dtr_+4-1double treble in the st 4 ahead and 1 round below the next st (C/green stm)
  • dtr_-4-1double treble in the st 4 behind and 1 round below the next st (C/green stm)
  • fptr_+1-3front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st 
  • fptr_-1-3front post treble around the st 1 behind and 3 rounds below the next st
  • 2tog-c – dcbb/dtr_+4-1/>2tog – 2 sts together with  

– leg 1: a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st 
– leg 2: a double treble in the top loops of the st 4 ahead and 1 round below the next st
(C/green stm)

  • 2tog-d – dtr_-4-1/dcbb/>2tog2 sts together with  
    – 
    leg 1: a double treble in top loops of the st 4 behind and 1 round below the next st and
    – 
    leg 2: a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st (C/green stm)
  • 2tog-e – dcbb/dtr_+4-1 in FLO>2tog – 2 sts together with  
    – leg 1: a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st 
    – leg 2: a double treble in FLO of the st 4 ahead and 1 round below the next st 
  • 2tog-f – dtr_-4-1 in FLO/dcbb/>2tog2 sts together with  
    – 
    leg 1: a double treble in FLO of the st 4 behind and 1 round below the next st and
    – leg 2: a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st 

Skip 1 st behind each special st (does not apply to the spSp)

Note: If you have placed a st marker (Colour C/green) in the top loops of the trebles and double trebles in the previous round, don’t remove them after working the dtr_4-1 into them; also, don’t remove the st marker in Colour A/red, after working the dtr_3-3; you will be working into theses sts again.

– In the first half of the side, you will be working the dtr_+4-1 and the 2tog-c sts, followed by sc; make sure to work the sc behind these special sts, leaving the special sts visible in the front. 

– The st in which you make the sc in BLO(*1)  will already contain the 2nd leg of the 2tog-e. 

– The second leg of the 2tog-f is worked in the sc in BLO(*2).

Round 43: Ch1, [fpdc-corner,

6 sc, spSp_-1-2, 2 sc, fptr_-1-3, 3 sc, sc in BLO, 9 sc, 

dtr_+4-1, 3 sc, (2tog-c, 3 sc) twice, 2tog-e, 2 sc, 

dtr_+3-3 in FLO, sc in BLO(*1), 3 sc, sc in BLO(*2), dtr_-3-3 in FLO, 

2 sc, 2 tog-f, (3 sc, 2tog-d) twice, 3 sc, dtr_-4-1, 9 sc,

sc in BLO, 3 sc, fptr_+1-3, 2 sc, spSp_+1-2, 6 sc] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
85 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 44: 

  • Colour C in the two dtr_4-1 made in this round
  • Colour D in the free FL of the sts from Round 42 

Special Stitches in Round 44:

  • spSp_+2-2split Spike stitch into the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (insert the hook between the vertical bars of the st; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS)
  • spSp_-2-2split Spike stitch into the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st (insert the hook between the vertical bars of the st; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS)
  • dcbb double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st
  • dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (D/orange stm)
  • dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st (D/orange stm)
  • dtr_0-4 in FLO double treble in the st 4 rounds below the next st
  • fptr_+1-2front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
  • fptr_-1-2front post treble around the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st 

Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st (does not apply to spSp)

Round 44: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 

3 sc, fptr_+1-2, 9 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 

8 sc, dcbb, 14 sc, spSp_+2-2, 2 sc, dtr_0-4 in FLO, 2 sc, spSp_-2-2, 14 sc, dcbb, 

8 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 9 sc, fptr_-1-2, 3 sc] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
87 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 45: 

  • Colour C in the top of the dtr made in this round
  • Colour D in the free FL of the sts from Round 43

Special Stitches in Round 45: 

  • spSp_+2-1split Spike stitch into the st 2 ahead and 1 round below the next st (insert the hook between the vertical bars of the st; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS)
  • spSp_-2-1split Spike stitch into the st 2 behind and 1 round below the next st (insert the hook between the vertical bars of the st; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS) 
  • dcbb double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st
  • fptr_+2-2front post treble around the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
  • fptr_-2-2front post treble around the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
  • Rose bud – 3 sc in BLO of the next st, 4 sc in FLO of the same st, ss in the FLO of the first st, continue in the next st; turn your work as you go; (see notes for st markers for rose bud stitches)  
  • Small Rose – ((dc, ch1) twice, dc) into the top loops of the st 2 rounds below, pull the loop up, remove hook from the loop, insert the hook in the top of the first of the dcs, grab the loop and pull through, ch1 to close the small rose (ch1 is part of the st) (D/orange stm)
  • Big Rose – make a bud (3 sc in BLO of the next st, 4 sc in FLO of the same st); work 2 sc in the 3rd loop of each st around, continue in the next st; (see notes for st markers for Big Rose)

Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st (does not apply to spSp, rose bud, small rose or big rose)

Round 45: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 

sc, spSp_+2-1, 10 sc, sc in BLO, 2 sc, small rose, 3 sc, 

big rose, (3 sc, rose bud) 4 times, 2 sc, fptr_+2-2, 4 sc, dcbb, 4 sc, 

fptr_-2-2, 2 sc, (rose bud, 3 sc) 4 times, big rose, 3 sc, 

small rose, 2 sc, sc in BLO, 10 sc, spSp_-2-1, sc ] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
89 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 47: 

  • Colour A in the free FL of the sts from Round 44

Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart 
Your purchase includes all parts for the pattern; Part 1 and Part 2 are already in the library; Parts 3 and 4 as well as the photo tutorials for all parts will be delivered as updates.

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Purchase each part individually through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop 
Spread the expense – get the single parts for the reduced price as they are released.

Claire Part 1
Claire Part 2
Claire Part 3
Claire Part 4 (coming January 2021)

Special Stitches in Round 46:
Apply to all split Spike sts:
Insert the hook between the vertical bars of the st; when you work these sts into another spSp, insert the hook between the elongated bars of the spSp you work into; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS 

  • spSp_+1-2split Spike st into the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st 
  • spSp_-1-2split Spike st into the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st 
  • spSp_+1-3split Spike st into the st 1 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st (this st will be worked into another spSp st)
  • spSp_-1-3split Spike st into the st 1 behind and 3 rounds below the next st (this st will be worked into another spSp st) 
  • spSp_+2-2split Spike st into the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st 
  • spSp_-2-2split Spike st into the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st 
  • tr_0-3treble in the st 3 rounds below the next st (C/green stm)
  • dtr_0-4double treble in the st 4 rounds below the next st (C/green stm)
  • fptr_+1-2front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
  • fptr_-1-2front post treble around the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st 
  • fptr_+1-3front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st
  • fptr_-1-3front post treble around the st 1 behind and 3 rounds below the next st

Round 46: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 

4 sc, fptr_+1-2, 2 sc, spSp_-1-2, 2 sc, spSp_-1-3, 2 sc, fptr_-1-3, 12 sc, 

tr_0-3, (3 sc, dtr_0-4) 3 times, 2 sc, spSp_+2-2, 5 sc, spSp_-2-2, 

2 sc, (dtr_0-4, 3 sc) 3 times, tr_0-3, 12 sc, fptr_+1-3, 2 sc, spSp_+1-3, 

2 sc, spSp_+1-2, 2 sc, fptr_-1-2, 4 sc] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
91 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 47 and Round 50: 

  • Colour C in the trebles and double trebles made in this round

Special Stitches in Round 47:

  • First twisted corner – (fpdc, ch2, fpdc) into the ch2 corner space; work the first fpdc around the first sc of the next side 1 round below, ch2, work the next fpdc – in front of the  previously made fpdc – around the last sc on the previous side 1 round below (see notes for special corners)
  • spSp_+2-2split Spike st into the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (this spSp will be worked into another spSp)
  • spSp_-2-2split Spike st into the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st (this spSp will be worked into another spSp)
  • dcbb double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st 
  • dtr_+3-3 in FLOdouble treble in front loop only of the st 3 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st (A/red stm)
  • dtr_-3-3 in FLO double treble in front loop only of the st 3 behind and 3 rounds below the next st (A/red stm) 
  • 2tog-c – dcbb/dtr_+4-1/>2tog – 2 sts together with  
    – leg 1: a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st 
    – leg 2: a double treble in the top loops of the st 4 ahead and 1 round below the next st (C/green stm)
  • 2tog-d – dtr_-4-1/dcbb/>2tog2 sts together with  
    – 
    leg 1: a double treble in top loops of the st 4 behind and 1 round below the next st and
    – 
    leg 2: a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st (C/green stm)

Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st (does not apply to spSp)

Note: If you have placed st markers (Colour C/green) in the previous round, don’t remove them after working the dtr / 2tog sts in these FLs; you will be working into them again.

Round 47: Ch1, [first twisted corner, 

sc, spSp_+2-2, 9 sc, dtr_+3-3 in FLO, 15 sc, (2tog-c, 3 sc) 3 times, dcbb, 11 sc, dcbb, 

(3 sc, 2tog-d) 3 times, 15 sc, dtr_-3-3 in FLO, 9 sc, spSp_-2-2, sc] 4 times

Ss into the first fpdc of the starting corner. –
93 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Special Stitches in Round 48:

  • Twisted corner – (fpdc, ch2, fpdc) into the ch2 corner space; work the first fpdc around the fpdc on the next side 1 round below, ch2, work the next fpdc – in front of the previously made fpdc – around the fpdc on the previous side 1 round below (see notes for special corners)
  • spSp_+1-2split Spike st into the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (this spSp will be worked into another spSp)
  • spSp_-1-2split Spike st into the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st (this spSp will be worked into another spSp)
  • spSp_+2-1split Spike stitch into the st 2 ahead and 1 round below the next st 
  • spSp_-2-1split Spike stitch into the st 2 behind and 1 round below the next st 
  • spSp_+2-2split Spike stitch into the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st 
  • spSp_-2-2split Spike stitch into the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st 
  • dtr_0-4double treble in the st 4 rounds below the next st
  • fpdtr_+3-3front post double treble around the st 3 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st
  • fpdtr_-3-3front post double treble around the st 3 behind and 3 rounds below the next st 
  • fpdtr_+1-4-cfront post double treble around the ch2 corner space 1 st ahead and 4 rounds below the next st
  • fpdtr_-1-4-cfront post double treble around the ch2 corner space 1 st behind and 4 rounds below the next st
    Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st (does not apply to spSp)  

Round 48: Ch1, [twisted corner,

sc, fpdtr_+1-4-c, 8 sc, spSp_-1-2, sc, spSp_+2-1, 25 sc, 

fpdtr_+3-3, 2 sc, spSp_+2-2, 4 sc, dtr_0-4, 

4 sc, spSp_-2-2, 2 sc, fpdtr_-3-3, 25 sc, 

spSp_-2-1, sc, spSp_+1-2, 8 sc, fpdtr_-1-4-c, sc] 4 times

Ss into the first fpdc of the starting corner. –
95 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 52: 

  • Colour A in the top loop of the dtr made in this round
    (red symbol in visual)

Suggested stitch marker placement for Round 51: 

  • Colour C in the top loops of the fpdtr_+/-3-3 made in this round

Special Stitches in Round 49:

  • Twisted corner – (fpdc, ch2, fpdc) into the ch2 corner space; work the first fpdc around the fpdc on the next side 1 round below, ch2, work the next fpdc – in front of the previously made fpdc – around the fpdc on the previous side 1 round below (see notes for special corners
  • spSp_+2-2split Spike stitch into the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st 
  • spSp_-2-2split Spike stitch into the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
  • dcbb double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st
  • fptr_+1-3front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st 
  • fptr_-1-3front post treble around the st 1 behind and 3 rounds below the next st
  • fpdtr_+2-3front post double treble around the st 2 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st
  • fpdtr_-2-3front post double treble around the st 2 behind and 3 rounds below the next st
  • fpdtr_+3-2front post double treble around the st 3 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st 
  • fpdtr_-3-2front post double treble around the st 3 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
  • Rose bud – 3 sc in BLO of the next st, 4 sc in FLO of the same st, ss in the FLO of the first st, continue in the next st; turn your work as you go; (see notes for st markers for rose bud stitches)  
  • Big Rose – make a bud (3 sc in BLO of the next st, 4 sc in FLO of the same st); work 2 sc in the 3rd loop of each st around, continue in the next st; (see notes for st markers for Big Rose)

Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st (does not apply to spSp sts, rose bud or big rose)

Round 49: Ch1, [twisted corner, 

4 sc, spSp_+2-2, sc, fptr_+1-3, 3 sc, fpdtr_+3-2, 

7 sc, fpdtr_-2-3, sc, big rose, 5 sc, big rose, 4 sc, 

(rose bud, 3 sc) twice, dcbb, 4 sc, spSp_+2-2, 

2 sc, dcbb, 2 sc, spSp_-2-2, 4 sc, dcbb, 

(3 sc, rose bud) twice, 4 sc, big rose, 5 sc, big rose, 

sc, fpdtr_+2-3, 7 sc, fpdtr_-3-2, 

3 sc, fptr_-1-3, sc, spSp_2-2, 4 sc] 4 times

Ss into the first fpdc of the starting corner. –
97 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

 

Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart 
Your purchase includes all parts for the pattern; Part 1 and Part 2 are already in the library; Parts 3 and 4 as well as the photo tutorials for all parts will be delivered as updates.

Not on Ravelry?

Purchase each part individually through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop 
Spread the expense – get the single parts for the reduced price as they are released.

Claire Part 1
Claire Part 2
Claire Part 3
Claire Part 4 (coming January 2021)

  • Twisted corner – (fpdc, ch2, fpdc) into the ch2 corner space; work the first fpdc around the fpdc on the next side 1 round below, ch2, work the next fpdc – in front of the previously made fpdc – around the fpdc on the previous side 1 round below (see notes for special corners)
  • pscpicot single crochet – insert hook in next st, yo and pull through (2 loops on hook), ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times, keeping the first loop on the hook) (2 loops on hook), yo and pull through 2 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front)
  • spSp_0-3split Spike st into the st 3 rounds below the next st
  • spSp_+1-3split Spike st into the st 1 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st 
  • spSp_-1-3split Spike st into the st 1 behind and 3 rounds below the next st 
  • spSp_+2-2split Spike stitch into the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st 
  • spSp_-2-2split Spike stitch into the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
  • dc_+1-2 double crochet in the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st  
  • dc_-1-2 double crochet in the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
  • dtr_0-4double treble in the st 4 rounds below the next st (C/green stm) 
  • fptr_+1-2front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
  • fptr_-1-2front post treble around the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
  • fpdtr_+3-2front post double treble around the st 3 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st 
  • fpdtr_-3-2front post double treble around the st 3 behind and 2 rounds below the next st

Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st (does not apply to psc)

Round 50: Ch1, [twisted corner, 

2 sc, psc, sc, fptr_-1-2, 4 sc, 

spSp_0-3, 2 sc, spSp_+2-2, 

(sc, psc) twice, sc, spSp_-1-3, 11 sc, 

dtr_0-4, 3 sc, dtr_0-4, 

2 sc, fpdtr_+3-2, 3 sc, dc_-1-2, 

spSp_+1-2, 11 sc, spSp_-1-2, dc_+1-2, 

3 sc, fpdtr_-3-2, 2 sc, 

dtr_0-4, 3 sc, dtr_0-4, 11 sc, spSp_+1-3, 

(sc, psc) twice, sc, spSp_-2-2, 

2 sc, spSp_0-3, 4 sc, 

fptr_+1-2, sc, psc, 2 sc] 4 times

Ss into the first fpdc of the starting corner. –
99 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 55: 

  • Colour A in the top loop of the second and third dtr_0-4 made in this round

We will continue Claire in Part 4 with Rounds 51 to 60 

Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart 
Your purchase includes all parts for the pattern; Part 1 and Part 2 are already in the library; Parts 3 and 4 as well as the photo tutorials for all parts will be delivered as updates.

Not on Ravelry?

Purchase each part individually through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop 
Spread the expense – get the single parts for the reduced price as they are released.

Claire Part 1
Claire Part 2
Claire Part 3 
Claire Part 4 (coming January 2021)

If you want to take pretty pictures, you can block your square. 

There are different ways to block a square, which I will write about in a different post.

You can go thrifty or luxurious with your blocking tools* or a mixture of both. Either way, your squares will most likely look straighter with an increased stitch definition when they have been blocked. 

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