Wrapped In Jamie CAL Square 3 – Goodbye Mama Pattern

Welcome to week 4 of the Wrapped In Jamie CAL, where you are going to learn how to crochet Square 3 – Goodbye Mama.

If you have only joined us now, please take a moment to  read the Introduction page or Introduction info sheet and the Stitch Collection (free resources from the Shop) first and make yourself familiar with the basic stitches used in the pattern as well as the anatomy of how the special stitches are written.

Both resources contain important information that will make your CAL easier to navigate. If you already are familiar with these documents…

SCROLL DOWN TO GET TO THE FREE PATTERN

Skill Level

Adventurous beginner to intermediate crocheter. (The stitches are easy, you just need to concentrate a little).

In saying that, you should be familiar with single crochet, double/treble/double treble crochet and how to work a front post stitch. If you are not, please refer to the Stitch Collection.

Recommended Yarn and Yardage

Drops Baby Merino Fingering/Sock/4ply
Gauge 24 sts x 32 rows with a 3mm/US2.5/D-3/UK 11 hook
175m/50g (191yds/1.75oz)

(available as part of a yarn kit from Wool Warehouse)

Yarn Requirements:
Inner Square: approximately 80m/90yds

Lincraft Homebrand DK/Light Worsted/8ply
Gauge 22 sts x 30 rows with a 4mm/US G/6/UK8 hook
100m/50g ( 110yds/1.75oz)
(sadly, available in Australia only)

Yarn Requirements:
Inner Square: approximately 95m/105yds

Drops Paris Worsted/Aran/10ply
Gauge 17 sts x 22 rows with a 5mm/US-H/8/UK-6 hook
75m/50g (82yds/1.75oz)
(available as part of a yarn kit from Wool Warehouse)

Yarn Requirements:
Inner Square: approximately 113m/124yds

Wool WarehouseWool Warehouse

You will also need:

  • hook as recommended for your choice of yarn
  • scissors
  • darning needle to weave in end
  • stitch markers (optional, but highly recommended; this could even be a yarn scrap, a paper clip or hair boppins)

Terminology used

This pattern uses US terminology throughout. 

Abbreviations and the most basic stitches are explained in the Stitch Collection (which is constantly updated), stitches relevant for this specific pattern are outlined within the instructions below.

Video Tutorials

Please note: in Round 12 it looks like I make a sc instead of a dcbb. This is marked with a !*! Make a dcbb in the FLO as described in the pattern

PDF Download

An ad-free PDF in US terms is available for AUS$2.95. The pattern is on sale within the first week of release for AUS$2 and you can use your VIP Discount Code to reduce the price to $1.60 (approx. US$1.10 at the time of writing)

An ad-free PDF in UK terms is available in the shop.
Download includes written pattern.

If you have all the information you need to start with the pattern, simply scroll down. The pattern is provided for free indefinitely (or as long as I or those who take over from me when I am gone can manage to pay for hosting).

If you know of someone who you think might enjoy the patterns, please send them directly to this website. Thank you.

Pattern Notes:

  • We are using the Magic Circle (MC), slip stitch (ss), single crochet (sc), double crochet (dc), half treble (htr), treble (tr) and front post treble (fptr)
  • Ch1 at the beginning of a round does not count as a stitch.
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Feel free to follow your own colourway and make your insides all the same colour or make them solid or mix and match insides and borders to your heart’s content. I would like for you to make this as much as possible your CAL project and I look forward to seeing your photos. Please tag me in any social media posts and use #wrappedinjamiecal or #desingedbyblacksheepcrochet so I can admire your work.

For those of you who asked for it, here are my recommendations for colour choices:

If you follow the Storyteller colourway, I recommend a soft green colour.

Using the yarn kits with six colours for the Diamond Kilt Claire 20, this would be my suggestion:

Jamie: solid square – darkest brown; mixed square – darkest brown for the inside square, medium brown for the square border

Claire: solid square – silver/grey; mixed square – silver/grey for the inside square, dusky rose for the square border

Scotland: solid square – darkest green; mixed square – darkest green for the inside square, medium green for the square border

(Some Scotland colourways contain a light heather, others a light or dark blue or a sea grass colour. The drawing considers those three options)

Jamie

Claire

Scotland

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Pattern Chart

The fabulous CAL – Crochet A Long Charters Naomi and Yolanda of Haakplein have created a crochet chart for those who prefer to use them over written instructions.

Thanks to Jo for her excellent editing not only of the chart, but also the pattern and photo tutorial.

You can download a free printable version from the shop. 

Mind you, even if you rather follow the written pattern, the chart is a great visual reference to help with stitch placement if you are ever unsure.

LoveCrafts

Translations

Thanks to the CAL – Crochet A Long translator team, we (will) have this square pattern available in several languages, including German, UK terms, French, Finnish, Swedish, Czech, Russian, Dutch and others.

You can find the PDFs on this page:

Wrapped In Jamie CAL Translations

Please note that some translations are not finished yet, but will be added shortly. Pattern in bold and underlined can already be downloaded at the links provided in the shop.

Remember

Remember to skip a st in the current round for each st worked around or in FLO of a previous round, unless instructed otherwise as explained in the Introduction!

Abbreviations

MC – Magic Circle
ch – chain
sk – skip
st/s – stitch/es
ss or sl st – slip stitch
FLO – front loop only
BLO – back loop only
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
htr – half treble crochet
tr – treble crochet
dtr – double treble crochet
fp – front post
fpdc – front post double crochet
dcbb – double crochet behind and below

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Special Stitches:

Tr/fpdctogTreble and front post double crochet together – yo twice, insert hook into FLO of st 2 behind and 1 round below next, yo and pull through, [yo and pull through 2 loops] twice, yo, insert hook behind fphtr from 2 rounds below, yo and pull through, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through remaining 3 loops

Dc/tr2togdouble crochet and treble crochet together – yo, insert hook behind 2nd htr from 2 rounds below, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo twice, insert hook in FLO of st 2 ahead and 1 round below, yo and pull through, [yo and pull through 2 loops] twice, yo and pull through remaining 3 loops

Dcbb – double crochet behind and below – double crochet into stitch directly behind and one round below the next stitch

Fphtr-2a-2b – Front post half treble around st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below

Fphtr-2b-2b – Front post half treble around st 2 behind and 2 rounds below

The Pattern

Video Tutorial Right-Handed

video tutorial Left-Handed

Begin with a Magic Circle. If you are unfamiliar with the MC or don’t want to use it and you don’t mind the hole in the middle of the square, you can start with ch 2 and crochet round 1 into the first ch.

Round 1: Ch1, [sc into magic circle, ch2] 4 times. Close your magic circle tightly.

Ss into the first sc to close the round (keep this ss loose as it will replace the sc below).

Tip: If you crochet over your loose tail, you can save yourself having to weave ends in later.

From here on, please make sure to find the first stitch, as it may sometimes be hidden by the second sc of the corner (sc, ch2, sc)

Round 2:

Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc in next st] 4 times.

Ss into the top of the first sc of the starting corner. – 3 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Round 3:

Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc in BLO, sc, sc in BLO] 4 times.

Ss into the top of the first sc of the starting corner. – 5 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Round 4:

Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc in BLO of next st, 3 sc, sc in BLO of next st] 4 times.

Ss into the top of the first st. – 7 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Round 5: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc in BLO of next st, sc, tr in FLO of st 2 rounds below next (Round 3), sc, tr in FLO of st 2 rounds below, sc, sc in BLO of next st] 4 times.  

Ss into the top of the first st. – 9 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

5.1 – tr in FLO of indicated st

5.2 – skip 1 st, sc in next (indicated)

5.3 – tr in FLO of indicated st

5.4 – skip 1 st, sc in indicated, sc in BLO

Wool Warehouse Wool Warehouse

Round 6: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 2 sc, tr in FLO of st 2 rounds below (Round 4), dcbb, sc, dcbb, tr in FLO of st 2 rounds below (Round 4), 2 sc] 4 times.

Ss into the top of the first st. – 11 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

6.1 – tr in FLO of indicated st

6.2 – dcbb into indicated st

6.3 – sc, dcbb, tr in FLO of indicated st

6.4 – finished side

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Round 7: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 2 sc, tr in FLO of st 2 rounds below (round 5), dcbb, 3 sc, dcbb, tr in FLO of st 2 rounds below (round 5), 2 sc] 4 times.

Ss into the top of the first st. – 13 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

7.1 – tr into indicated FLO

7.2 – dc behind and below indicated st 

7.3 – next sc into indicated st

7.4 – dc behind and below indicated st

7.5 – tr into indicated FLO

7.6 – next sc into indicated st

Round 8: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc in BLO, 2 sc, dcbb, sc, fptr around tr from Round 5 below, sc, fptr around tr from Round 5 below next st, sc, dcbb, 2 sc, sc in BLO] 4 times.

Ss into the top of the first st. – 15 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

8.1 – dcbb

8.2 – fptr around indicated st

8.3 – fptr around indicated st

8.4 – dcbb

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Round 9: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 5 sc, fptr around tr from Round 6 below, dcbb, sc, dcbb, fptr around tr from Round 6 below, 5 sc] 4 times.

Ss into the top of the first st. – 17 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

9.1 – fptr around indicated st

9.2 – dcbb

9.3- dcbb 

9.4 – fptr around indicated st

 

Round 10: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc, ch2, tr in FLO of st 2 rounds below, ch2 (skip only 1 st per ch2, so 3 sts altogether), sc, fptr around tr from round 7 below, dcbb , 3 sc, dcbb, fptr around tr from Round 7 below, sc, ch2, tr in FLO of st 2 rounds below, ch2 (again skip only 3 sts altogether), sc] 4 times.

Ss into the top of the first st. – 19 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

10.1 – sc, ch2, tr in FLO of indicates st, then ch2

10.2 – skip 3 sts, sc in next st(indicated)

10.3 – fptr around indicated st

10.4- dcbb

10.5 – 3 sc, then dcbb

10.6  fptr around indicated st

10.7 – ch2, tr in FLO of indicated st, ch2, sc in last st

Wool WarehouseWool Warehouse

Round 11: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 2 sc, dcbb behind the next 3 sts, sc, dcbb, sc, fptr around tr from Round 8 below, ch2, fptr around tr from Round 8 below (remember to skip 3 sts on the previous row now), sc, dcbb, sc, dcbb behind next 3 sts, 2 sc] 4 times.

Sl st into the top of the first st. – 21 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

11.1 – dcbb in indicated loops

11.2 – sc in indicated st

11.3 – dc behind indicated st

11.4 – sc in indicated st

11.5 – fptr around indicated st

11.6 – ch2, then fptr around indicated st

11.7 – sc in indicated st, dc behind and below next

11.5 – sc in indicated st

11.9 – dcbb in indicated sts

11.10 – next st (sc) in indicated st

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                                                                                                                     Round 12: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 8 sc, fptr around tr from Round 9 below, dc in the FLO of the next 3 st behind the (fptr, ch2, fptr) from previous round, fptr around tr from Round 9 below, 8 sc] 4 times.

Ss into the top of the first st. – 23 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

12.1 – 8 sc, then fptr around indicated st

12.2 – dc in FLO of 3 sts

12.3 – sfptr around indicated st, then 8 sc

Round 13: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 5 sc, bptr around the tr from 2 rounds below (careful not to tangle the ch2’s), 2 sc, fptr around tr from Round 10 below, dcbb the fptr from previous round, htr in the BLO of the next 3 sts from 2 rounds below, dcbb the fptr from previous round, fptr around tr from Round 10 below, 2 sc, bptr around the tr from 2 rounds below (careful not to tangle the ch2’s), 5 sc] 4 times.

Ss into the top of the first st. – 25 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

13.1 – 5 sc, then bptr around indicated st (tr)

13.2 – skip 1 st, sc in indicated and next

13.3 – fptr around indicated st

13.4 – dc behind indicated st

13.5 – htr in BLO of indicated sts

13.6 – dc behind indicated st

13.7 – fptr around indicated st

13.8 – skip 1 st, sc into indicated st

13.9 – bptr around indicated st

13.10 – fskip 1 st, next sc in indicated st

Round 14: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc in 3rd loop* across {25 st on each side in this round}] 4 times.

Ss into the top of the first st. – 27 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

14.1 – sc in 3rd loop or bpsc across

Round 15: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc, (sc in BLO of next st, 3 sc, sc in BLO of next st) 5 times, sc] 4 times.

Ss into the top of the first st. – 29 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Special Stitch in Round 16:

Tr2tog – 2 treble together with 1st leg into the FLO of the stitch 2 behind and 1 round below (Round 15) and 2nd leg into the FLO of the stitch 2 ahead and 1 round below

Round 16: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 4 sc, (tr2tog, 4 sc) 5 times] 4 times.

Ss into the top of the first st. – 31 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

16.1 – tr2tog with legs in indicated sts

16.2 – skip 1 st, next sc in indicated sts

16.3 – tr2tog with legs in indicated sts

16.4 – skip 1 st, next sc in indidcated st

16.5 – tr2tog with legs in indicated sts

16.6 – skip 1 st, next sc in indicated st

16.7 – tr2tog with legs in indicates sts

16.8 – skip 1 st, next sc in indicated st

16.9 – tr2tog with legs in indicated sts

16.10 – skip 1 st, next sc into indicated st

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Round 17: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 5 sc, (dcbb through the BLO of the next st*, 4 sc) 4 times, dcbb through the BLO of the next st, 5 sc] 4 times.

Ss into the top of the first st. – 33 sts per side plus ch2 corner

*this is the top of the tr2tog from the previous round

17.1 – dcbb through the BLO of next st …

17.2 – …into top loops of st below

Special Stitches in Round 18:

tr-2a-1b – treble through the top diagonal loop of the right leg of the tr2tog from Round 16 AND the FLO of the tr2tog 2 sts ahead and 1 round below

tr-2b-1b – treble through the same loops as the tr-2a-1b

Round 18: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 4 sc, (tr-2a-1b, 3 sc, *tr-2b-1b) 5 times, 4sc] 4 times. Ss into the top of the first st. – 35 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

*You will make 2 tr after one another from here on, so remember to skip 2 sts in the back!

18.1 – 4 sc, then tr-2a-1b through indicated loops

18.2 – 3 sc, then tr-2b-1b through indicated loops

18.3 – tr-2a-1b through indicated sts

18.4 – skip 2 sts, next sc in indicated st, 2 more sc

18.5 – ftr-2b-1b through indicated sts

18.6 – tr-2a-1b through indicated sts

Wool Warehouse Wool Warehouse

Special Stitches in Round 19:

Double-anchor – work behind the 2 side-by-side tr from previous round: dc2tog with legs in the first and second st behind the tr (=top loops of sts from round 17), then fpsc around the ‘bar’ between the 2 tops of the tr

hdcaround – work a hdc through the two loops of the stitch 1 round below (front to back, as normal), encompassing all loops and chains in between when pulling the yarn through.

Round 19: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 5 sc, hdcaround the right side for right-handers/left side for left-handers of the tr below, (3 sc, double-anchor) 4 times, 3 sc, hdcaround the right side of the tr below, 5 sc] 4 times.

Ss into the top of the first st. – 37 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

19.1 – insert hook in indicated st for…

19.2 – …hdcaround

19.3 – dc2tog with legs in indicated sts

19.4 – fpsc around indicated ‘bar’

19.5 – same as 19.4 with hook

19.3 – hdcaround

If you want to complete the square with the border or Round 20 in a different colour, now is the perfect time to fasten off the first colour, weave in the tails and attach the new colour in any of the corners. Please switch to the Square Border pattern now (available for free on the website) for Rounds 20 – 30.

If you are not intending to work the Square Border and don’t want to change colour for the last round, skip directly to Round 20.

Although you could add the new colour in any way you wish, the neatest way is by using a Standing sc. If you choose this method, omit the ch1 and the first sc at the beginning of Round 20 and continue with the ch2 after the sc.

Round 20: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc in 3rd loop across (or bpsc if you find 3rd loops to difficult) {37 sts on each side}] 4 times. Ss into the top of the first st or cut yarn and finish with an invisible join. – 39 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

The inner part of your Square 3 – Goodbye Mama is now finished 🙂

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