WIJ CAL Claire Square Part 2 Pattern

Table of Contents

Hundreds of hours have gone into the creation of this pattern that you can access for free.

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Are you a total beginner and need to learn some crochet basics? Craftsy* have lots of awesome tutorials that will get you ready to attempt this pattern with confidence. Get started with the link below or with some basic crochet here.

Background Story and Designer's Thoughts

If you are interested in the background story and thoughts about the inspiration for design, colour and choice of stitches used, you can do that here:

Season 2 Wrapped in Jamie – Claire’s Background Story

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Your purchase includes all parts for the pattern; Part 1 and Part 2 are already in the library; Parts 3 and 4 as well as the photo tutorials for all parts will be delivered as updates.

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Purchase each part individually through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop 
Spread the expense – get the single parts for the reduced price as they are released

Claire Part 1
Claire Part 2
Claire Part 3 
Claire Part 4 

'Petranese' explained

“Petranese” is the Black Sheep Crochet way of writing overlay crochet patterns. 

If you are not yet familiar with this system, you can download your free copy of the ‘Petranese’ explained – Basics with explanations, instructions and photo tutorials for some special stitches here (also included in the pattern purchase):

Alternatively, visit the online version ‘Petranese’ explained Tutorial series

Video Tutorials

You can find all video tutorials for this and other released squares in my YouTube Channel for Black Sheep Crochet, where you can also subscribe for automatic notification when new videos are uploaded.

All videos are  in “Germanised British English US crochet terms Petranese”.

This means I am using US crochet terminology within ‘Petranese’, British/Australian speech and grammar for instructions and narrations, ‘spiced’ and ‘enriched’ with germanised expressions due to not being a native English speaker. 

NO VIDEO TUTORIAL MAY BE CREATED FROM THIS PATTERN – IN ANY LANGUAGE – WITHOUT THE DESIGNER’S WRITTEN PERMISSION!

As the video tutorials get pretty long, I have divided them in 2 parts. 2.1 is for Rounds 21 to 28 (below), 2.2 for Rounds 29 to 35 (further down, before Round 29). 

Right-handed video

Left-handed video

PDF download

As mentioned, hundreds of hours go into the design and creation of the written pattern, charts, photo tutorials, supporting special stitch tutorials, and the videos. 

By purchasing the ad-free PDF version of this pattern you support an independent designer and contribute to covering costs for domain, website hosting, email providers, shop features and other technical necessities. 

Besides my gratitude and appreciation, you receive the written pattern including extra support and features, like visuals, the special overlay crochet chart which is excellent for easy stitch placement reference, a photo tutorial* and all the links listed relating to this pattern.

(*the photo tutorial for this specific pattern will come to you as a pattern update as soon as it is ready)

You can find the pattern in the shop here:

Season 2 Wrapped in Jamie CAL – Claire Square Part 2

Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart 
Your purchase includes all parts for the pattern; Part 1 and Part 2 are already in the library; Parts 3 and 4 as well as the photo tutorials for all parts will be delivered as updates.

Not on Ravelry?

Purchase each part individually through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop 
Spread the expense – get the single parts for the reduced price as they are released.

Claire Part 1
Claire Part 2
Claire Part 3 
Claire Part 4 

Photo Tutorial

Coming in January 2021!

In order to ensure the best possible website performance, this pattern will only display a limited number of tutorial pictures. A detailed photo tutorial is available as part of the PDF pattern (added as an update).

Translations

This patterns is currently only available in Germanised British English US crochet terms Petranese.

There are plans to have it translated into different languages later on. If you are experienced and would like to support the translations, please contact the designer.

THIS PATTERN MUST NOT BE TRANSLATED INTO ANOTHER LANGUAGE (EXCEPT FOR YOUR OWN PERSONAL USE) WITHOUT THE DESIGNER’S WRITTEN PERMISSION!

Are you a total beginner and need to learn some crochet basics? Craftsy* have lots of awesome tutorials that will get you ready to attempt this pattern with confidence. Get started with the link below

What you will need

If you have made any of the other Wrapped in Jamie squares , you have an approximate idea of the amount you need for one square. 

Claire is as big as four squares including the square border, so it will require approximately the same amount of yarn. Make sure you are rather on the generous site when calculating your yardage.

If this is your first Wrapped in Jamie design, you can get a general idea about yarn requirements here:

Wrapped in Jamie squares Yarn requirements

You will also need

Claire Part 1 (finished up to Round 20)

  • scissors
  • darning needle to weave in ends
  • stitch markers* (optional, but highly recommended, this could even be yarn scrap, a hair pin or a paperclip) – if you choose to use stitch markers, it will be good to have at least 4 different colours. And lots of them 😉

Reminder and Important Pattern Notes (some new for Part 2)

Skipping stitches

For each special stitch you make in front, behind, around or in the front loop of another stitch from a previous round, you must leave the stitch behind or in front of the special stitch unworked (skip 1 stitch) unless instructed otherwise. A reminder to skip those stitches will be written under the special stitches for each round, not within the pattern instructions. If more than one special stitch has been worked and therefore more than one stitch needs to be skipped, a reminder is included in the pattern instructions. 

It is not necessary to skip a stitch when the special stitch is being worked over a stitch and therefore envelopes it, as it is for example the case with spike and split spike stitches, hdc-arounds or psc and psc-x.

While we skip a stitch behind a long front post stitch, a front post single crochet does not leave a lot of room for skipping (although technically we still skip at least the top loops of the stitch we fpsc around). 

The main objective here is to avoid unnecessary increases, so please keep that in mind.  

Ch1 and slip stitch

The ch1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch and will be skipped when we slip stitch into the first stitch at the end of each round.

Keep the slip stitch that closes the round loose as it will replace the stitch below as the last stitch of the next round.

Stitch markers

The use of stitch markers* is optional and mainly intended to encourage and support less experienced crocheters. If finding free front loops is easy for you, you are likely to be quicker crocheting without stitch markers. 

    • Optionalstitch markers*placements are suggested for the adventurous beginner and may not be necessary for intermediate and advanced crocheters.
    • Suggestedstitch markers* placements are considered beneficial or essential for correct and easy stitch placement for all crochet levels.

If you follow the suggested stitch markers* placements, take the stitch markers out of the stitch or front loop after the special stitches have been worked, unless instructed otherwise.

Picot Single Crochet

A psc-x is made when the next st is a special stitch where the stitch behind it is skipped. The nature of the psc requires some anchoring, which is achieved by making the variation psc-x. You can make a psc-x (picot single crochet variation) whenever the pattern calls for a regular psc, but not the other way around.

Stitch markers for 

– Rose bud

When working the rose bud, it is helpful to place a st marker in the third loop of the first of three sc in BLO you make to start the rose bud. It will make it easier and quicker to find the correct free FLO to ss into in order to close the st. Leave the st marker in place until you worked over the st in the next round, where you will be crocheting into this third loop or the two main loops of this st (your choice).

Puff-a st

The puff-a st appears to have 2 top loops: the last loop that was on the hook (the ‘original’ loop) and the closing chain. In the following round, when working over the puff-a st, I recommend working into the ch1 and skipping the original loop of the puff st.

Special Stitches used in this pattern

Please note: The special stitches work well for crocheters/crochettes with a ‘normal’ or ‘tight’ tension. If your tension is loose,  you will find that using, for example, tr instead of dtr will give you a cleaner and crisper stitch definition. 

In contrast, if your tension is very tight, please give an extra yarn over when making long stitches.

Special stitches relevant for this pattern are outlined below and specified in more detail above each round.

Spst_0-3Spike st into the corner space 3 rounds below the next st

Spst_+1-2Spike stitch into the corner space 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st

Spst_-1-2Spike stitch into the corner space 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st

spSp_0-3split Spike st into the st 3 rounds below the next st

spSp_+1-2split Spike stitch into the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st

spSp_-1-2split Spike stitch into the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st 

dcbbdouble crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st

dc_0-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 2 rounds below the next st

dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st

dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st

tr_0-3 in FLOtreble in front loop only  of the st 3 rounds below the next st

tr_+2-3 in FLOtreble crochet in front loop only of the st 2 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st 

tr_-2-3  in FLOtreble crochet in front loop only of the st 2 behind and 3 rounds below the next st

dtr_0-4double treble in the st 4 rounds below the next st

fptr_+1-2front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st

fptr_-1-2front post treble around the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st

fptr_+1-3front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st

fptr_-1-3front post treble around the st 1 behind and 3 rounds below the next st

fptr_+2-2front post treble around the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st

fptr_-2-2front post treble around the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st

fpdtr_+3-3front post double treble around the st 3 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st

fpdtr_-3-3front post double treble around the st 3 behind and 3 rounds below the next st

fpdtr_-3-3/fptr_+2-2/<2tog 2 front post sts together with 

  • leg 1: a double treble around the st 3 behind and 3 rounds below the next st and 
  • leg 2: a treble around the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st

fptr_-2-2/ fpdtr_+3-3/<2tog 2 front post sts together with 

  • leg 1: a treble around the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st and
  • leg 2: a double treble around the st 3 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st

2tog-a – fptr_+2-2/dtr_+4-1/>2tog2 sts together with  

  • leg 1:  a front post treble around the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st and 
  • leg 2:  a double treble in the top loops of the st 4 ahead and 1 round below the next st

2tog-b – dtr_-4-1/fptr_-2-2/>2tog2 sts together with  

  • leg 1: a double treble in the top loops of the st 4 behind and 1 round below the next st and
  • leg 2:  a front post treble around the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st 

2tog-c – dcbb/dtr_+4-1/>2tog – 2 sts together with  

  • leg 1: a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st and 
  • leg 2: a double treble in the top loops of the st 4 ahead and 1 round below the next st

2tog-d – dtr_-4-1/dcbb/>2tog2 sts together with  

  • leg 1: a double treble in top loops of the st 4 behind and 1 round below the next st and 
  • leg 2: a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st

Puff-a stPuff around st – yo, insert hook into the chain space 2 rounds below, yo and pull up a loop) 3 times (7 loops on the hook), yo and pull through all loops, ch1 to close the st (ch1 is part of the st and does not count as an extra st or ch)

Note: The puff-a st appears to have 2 top loops: the last loop that was on the hook (the ‘original’ loop) and the closing chain. In the following round, when working over the puff-a st, I recommend working into the ch1 and skipping the original loop of the puff st.  

See this Puff st (corner) tutorial 

Rose bud – 3 sc in BLO of the next st, 4 sc in FLO of the same st, ss in the third loop of the first st, continue in the next st turning your work by 90° as you go; 

Small Rose – ((dc, ch1) twice, dc) into the FLO of the st 2 rounds below, pull the loop up, remove hook from the loop, insert the hook in the top of the first of the dcs, grab the loop and pull through, ch1 to close the small rose (ch1 is part of the st). In the next round, when working over the small rose, work into the ch1.

Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart 
Your purchase includes all parts for the pattern; Part 1 and Part 2 are already in the library; Parts 3 and 4 as well as the photo tutorials for all parts will be delivered as updates.

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Purchase each part individually through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop 
Spread the expense – get the single parts for the reduced price as they are released.

Claire Part 1
Claire Part 2
Claire Part 3 
Claire Part 4 

Pattern Round 21 to 35

Special Stitches in Round 21:

  • pscpicot single crochet – insert hook in next st, yo and pull through, ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times, keeping the first loop on the hook), yo and pull through 2 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front)
  • Spst_+1-2Spike st into the corner space 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
  • Spst_-1-2Spike st into the corner space 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
  • dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds
    below the next st (C/green – first stm, A/red – middle stm)
  • dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds
    below the next st (A/red – middle stm; C/green – last stm)
  • fptr_+2-2front post treble around the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
  • fptr_-2-2front post treble around the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st

Skip 1 st behind each special st (does not apply to the psc or Spst)

Round 21: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 
sc, spSp_-1-2, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 4 sc, psc, 6 sc, 
fptr_+2-2, 3 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 3 sc, 
fptr_-2-2, 6 sc, psc, 4 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, spSp_+1-2, sc] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
41 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 22 and 23: 

  • Colour A in the middle free FL of the st from Round 20

Special Stitches in Round 22:

  • pscpicot single crochet – insert hook in next st, yo and pull through, ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times, keeping the first loop on the hook), yo and pull through 2 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front)
  • Spst_0-3Spike st into the corner space 3 rounds below the next st
    (this is the same corner in which the Spst was made in the previous round)
  • spSp_+1-2split Spike st into the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
  • spSp_-1-2split Spike st into the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
    (One of each of the spSp sts are worked into the same st; insert the hook between the vertical bars of the st you work into; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS)
  • dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds
    below the next st (A/red stm)
  • dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds
    below the next st (A/red stm)

Skip 1 st behind each special st (does not apply to the psc, Spst or spSp st)

Note: If you have placed a st marker (stm Colour A/red) in the previous round, don’t remove it after working the dcs in this FLs; you will be working into it again.

Round 22: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 
sc, Spst_0-3, 3 sc, (spSp_+1-2, sc, spSp_-1-2, sc) twice
6 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc, dc_-1-2 in FLO,
7 sc, (spSp_+1-2, sc, spSp_-1-2, sc) twice
2 sc, Spst_0-3, sc] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
43 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 23: 

  • Keep the stm in Colour A in the middle free FL of the st from Round 20

Special Stitches in Round 23:

  • spSp_0-3split Spike st into the st 3 rounds below the next st 
    One of each of the spSp sts below are worked into the same st;
    insert the hook between the vertical bars of the st you work into; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS:
  • Spst_+1-2Spike st into the corner space 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
  • Spst_-1-2Spike st into the corner space 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
  • tr_0-3 in FLOtreble in front loop only  of the st 3 rounds below the next st (A/red stm; work the tr between the dcs from 1 round below)
  • fptr_+1-2front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
  • fptr_-1-2front post treble around the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st

Skip 1 st behind each special st (does not apply to the Spst or spSp st)

Round 23: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 

sc, spSp_-1-2, 3 sc, fptr_-1-2, sc, spSp_0-3, 3 sc, spSp_0-3, 
5 sc, sc in BLO, 3 sc, 
tr_0-3 in FLO, 3 sc, sc in BLO, 5 sc, spSp_0-3, 3 sc, spSp_0-3, 
sc, fptr_+1-2, 3 sc, spSp+1-2, sc] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
45 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 24 and 25: 

  • Colour A in the free FL of the sts from Round 22 

 

Special Stitches in Round 24:

  • pscpicot single crochet – insert hook in next st, yo and pull through, ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times, keeping the first loop on the hook), yo and pull through 2 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front)
  • Spst_0-3Spike st into the corner space 3 rounds below the next st
    (this is the same corner in which the Spst was made in the previous round)
  • dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red stm)
  • dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red stm) 
  • fpdtr_+3-3front post double treble around the st 3 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st 
  • fpdtr_-3-3front post double treble around the st 3 behind and 3 rounds below the next st

Skip 1 st behind each special st (does not apply to the psc or Spst)

Round 24: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 
sc, Spst_0-3, 2 sc, sc in BLO, (3 sc, psc) twice, sc, 
fpdtr_+3-3, 2 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO,
5 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 2 sc,
fpdtr_-3-3, sc, (psc, 3 sc) twice, sc in BLO, 2 sc, Spst_0-3, sc] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
47 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 25: 

  • Colour A in the second and third free FL of the sts from Round 23 
  • Colour B in the first and last free FL of the sts from Round 23

Special Stitches in Round 25:

  • Spst_+1-2Spike st into the corner space 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
  • Spst_-1-2Spike st into the corner space 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
  • spSp_+1-2split Spike st into the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
  • spSp_-1-2split Spike st into the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
    One of each of the two spSp sts above are worked into the same st; insert the hook between the vertical bars of the st you work into; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS)
  • dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red and B/blue stm)
  • dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st (A /red and B/blue stm) 
  • fptr_+1-2front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
  • fptr_-1-2front post treble around the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st

Skip 1 st behind each special st (does not apply to the Spst or spSp st)

Note: If you have placed st markers (Colour B/blue) in the previous round, don’t remove them after working the dcs in these FLs; you will be working into them again.

Round 25: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 
sc, Spst_-1-2, 2 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc, dc_-1-2 in FLO, sc, 
fptr_-1-2, sc, spSp_+1-2, sc, spSp_-1-2, 5 sc, 
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 2 sc, sc in BLO, 2 sc, 
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 5 sc,
spSp_+1-2, sc, spSp_-1-2, sc, fptr_+1-2, sc, 
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 2 sc, Spst_+1-2, sc] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
49 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 26: 

  • Colour A in the second and third free FL of the sts from Round 24
  • Colour C in the middle free FL of the st from Round 24
  • Keep the st markers in colour B/blue in the FL after working the dcs

Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart 
Your purchase includes all parts for the pattern; Part 1 and Part 2 are already in the library; Parts 3 and 4 as well as the photo tutorials for all parts will be delivered as updates.

Not on Ravelry?

Purchase each part individually through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop 
Spread the expense – get the single parts for the reduced price as they are released.

Claire Part 1
Claire Part 2
Claire Part 3 
Claire Part 4 

Special Stitches in Round 26:

  • Spst_0-3Spike st into the corner space 3 rounds below the next st
    (this is the same corner in which the Spst has been made in the previous round)
  • spSp_0-3split Spike st into the st 3 rounds below the next st
    (The spSp will be worked into the same st as the two spSp sts from from previous round; insert the hook between the vertical bars of the st you work into; the hook will appear below the 3rd loop on the WS)
  • dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red stm)
  • dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red stm) 
  • tr_0-3 in FLOtreble in front loop only of the st 3 rounds below the next st (B/blue stm; work the tr between the dcs from 1 round below) 
  • fptr_+2-2front post treble around the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
  • fptr_-2-2front post treble around the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st

Skip 1 st behind each special st (does not apply to the Spst or spSp st)

Note: If you have placed st markers (Colour A/red) in the previous round, don’t remove them after working the dcs in these FLs; you will be working into them again.

Round 26: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 

sc in BLO, Spst_0-3, sc, sc in BLO, 2 sc, tr_0-3 in FLO, 5 sc, 
spSp_0-3, sc, fptr_+2-2, 4 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 5 sc, 
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 4 sc, fptr_-2-2, sc, spSp_0-3, 5 sc, 
tr_0-3 in FLO, 2 sc, sc in BLO, sc, Spst_0-3, sc in BLO] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
51 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 27: 

  • Colour B in the second and third free FL of the sts from Round 25 
  • Colour C in the first and last free FL of the sts from Round 25

Special Stitches in Round 27:

  • pscpicot single crochet – insert hook in next st, yo and pull through, ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times, keeping the first loop on the hook), yo and pull through 2 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front)
  • dc_0-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 2 rounds below the next st (C/green – first and last stm)
  • dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (B/blue stm)
  • dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st (B/blue stm) 
  • tr_0-3 in FLOtreble in front loop only  of the st 3 rounds below the next st (A/red stm; work the tr between the dcs from 1 round below)
  • tr_+2-3 in FLOtreble crochet in front loop only of the st 2 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st (C/green – middle stm)
  • tr_-2-3 in FLOtreble crochet in front loop only of the st 2 behind and 3 rounds below the next st (C/green – middle stm)
  • Puff-a stPuff around st – yo, insert hook into the chain space 2 rounds below, yo and pull up a loop) 3 times (7 loops on the hook), yo and pull through all loops, ch1 to close the st (ch1 is part of the st)

Skip 1 st behind each special st (does not apply to the psc or puff-a st)

Note: If you have placed st markers (Colour B/blue) in the previous round, don’t remove them after working the dcs in these FLs; you will be working into them again.

Round 27: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 
puff-a, dc_0-2 in FLO, sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 
7 sc, psc, 3 sc, sc in BLO, 3 sc, tr_0-3 in FLO, sc, tr_+2-3 in FLO, 
3 sc, tr_-2-3 in FLO, sc, tr_0-3 in FLO, 3 sc, 
sc in BLO, 3 sc, psc, 7 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 
sc, dc_0-2 in FLO, puff-a] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
53 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 28: 

  • Colour A in the free FL of the sts from Round 26 

Suggested stitch marker placements for Round 30: 

  • Colour C in the top loops of the angular trebles made in this round

Special Stitches in Round 28:

  • dcbbdouble crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st
  • dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red stm)
  • dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red stm) 
  • tr_0-3 in FLOtreble in front loop only  of the st 3 rounds below the next st (B/blue stm; work the tr between the dcs from 1 round below) 
  • fpdtr_-3-3/fptr_+2-2/<2tog 2 front post sts together with 
      • leg 1: a double treble around the st 3 behind and 3 rounds below the next st and 
      • leg 2: a treble around the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
  • fptr_-2-2/ fpdtr_+3-3/<2tog 2 front post sts together with 
      • leg 1: a treble around the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st and
      • leg 2: a double treble around the st 3 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st
  • Puff-a stPuff around st – yo, insert hook into the chain space 2 rounds below, yo and pull up a loop) 3 times (7 loops on the hook), yo and pull through all loops, ch1 to close the st (ch1 is part of the st)

Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st (does not apply to the puff-a st)

Note: If you find that the fpdtr or fptr in the 2tog sts are too tight or too long, try adjusting the sts with either an extra or one less yarn over

Round 28: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 
puff-a, 4 sc, tr_0-3 in FLO, 4 sc, sc in BLO, 3 sc, fptr_-2-2/fpdtr_+3-3/<2tog, 
2 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO,
4 sc, dcbb, 3 sc, dcbb, 4 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 
2 sc, fpdtr_-3-3/fptr_+2-2/<2tog, 3 sc, sc in BLO
4 sc, tr_0-3 in FLO, 4 sc, puff-a] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
55 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 29: 

  • Colour A in the second and third free FL of the sts from Round 26
    (red symbols in visual)
  • Colour B in the first and last free FL of the sts from Round 26

Video Tutorial 2.2 - Rounds 29 to 35 RH

Video Tutorial 2.2 - Rounds 29 to 35 LH

Special Stitches in Round 29:

  • pscpicot single crochet – insert hook in next st, yo and pull through, ch3 (= pull yarn through only the last loop made, 3 times, keeping the first loop on the hook), yo and pull through 2 loops, continue with the next st (keep the ch3/picot in the front)
  • dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds
    below the next st (A/red and B/blue stm)
  • dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds
    below the next st (A/red and B/blue stm) 
  • fptr_+2-2front post treble around the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
  • fptr_-2-2front post treble around the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
  • Puff-a stPuff around st – yo, insert hook into the chain space 2 rounds below,
    yo and pull up a loop) 3 times (7 loops on the hook), yo and pull through all loops,
    ch1 to close the st (ch1 is part of the st) 
  • Rose bud – 3 sc in BLO of the next st, 4 sc in FLO of the same st, ss in the third loop of the first st, continue in the next st; turn your work as you go

Skip 1 st behind each special st (does not apply to the psc, puff-a st or rose bud)

Note:. Please refer to the note on st markers for the rose bud above

Round 29: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 
puff-a, 9 sc,
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in
BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO,
2 sc, 
psc, 2 sc,
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in
BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO,
2 sc, fptr_+2-2, 
3 sc, rose bud, 3 sc, fptr_-2-2, 2 sc,
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in
BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO,
2 sc, psc, 2 sc,
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in
BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO,
9 sc, puff-a
] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
57 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 30 and 31: 

  • Colour A in the second and third free FL of the sts from Round 28
  • Colour B in the first and last free FL of the sts from Round 28

Special Stitches in Round 30:

  • dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red and B/blue stm)
  • dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red and B/blue stm)  
  • tr_0-3treble in the st 3 rounds below the next st (C/green stm)
  • fptr_+1-3front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st
  • fptr_-1-3front post treble around the st 1 behind and 3 rounds below the next st
  • Puff-a stPuff around st – yo, insert hook into the chain space 2 rounds below, yo and pull up a loop) 3 times (7 loops on the hook), yo and pull through all loops, ch1 to close the st (ch1 is part of the st) 

Skip 1 st behind each special st

Note: If you have placed st markers (Colour A/red and B/blue) in the previous round, don’t remove them after working the dcs in these FLs; you will be working into them again.

Round 30: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 
puff-a, 4 sc, fptr_-1-3, 2 sc, sc in BLO, 2 sc, 
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 5 sc, 
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 4 sc, 
tr_0-3, 3 sc, tr_0-3, 4 sc, 
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 5 sc,
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 
2 sc,
sc in
BLO, 2 sc, fptr_+1-3, 4 sc, puff-a] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
59 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 31: 

  • Colour B in the free FL of the sts from Round 29 

Suggested stitch marker placements for Round 31 and Round 34: 

  • Colour C in the top loops of the trebles made in this round

Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart 
Your purchase includes all parts for the pattern; Part 1 and Part 2 are already in the library; Parts 3 and 4 as well as the photo tutorials for all parts will be delivered as updates.

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Purchase each part individually through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop 
Spread the expense – get the single parts for the reduced price as they are released.

Claire Part 1
Claire Part 2
Claire Part 3 
Claire Part 4 

Special Stitches in Round 31:

  • dcbb double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st
  • dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (B/blue stm)
  • dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st (B/blue stm)  
  • tr_0-3 in FLOtreble in front loop only of the st 3 rounds below the next st (A/red – second and third stm; B/blue – first and last stm; work the tr between the dcs from 1 round below)
  • 2tog-a – fptr_+2-2/dtr_+4-1/>2tog2 sts together with  
    • leg 1:  a front post treble around the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st  and 
    • leg 2:  a double treble in the top loops of the st 4 ahead and 1 round below the next st
  • 2tog-b – dtr_-4-1/fptr_-2-2/>2tog2 sts together with  
      • leg 1: a double treble in top loops of the st 4 behind and 1 round below the next st and
      • leg 2:  a front post treble around the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st 
    • Puff-a stPuff around st – yo, insert hook into the chain space 2 rounds below, yo and pull up a loop) 3 times (7 loops on the hook), yo and pull through all loops,
      ch1 to close the st (ch1 is part of the st) 
  • Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st

Note: If you have placed st markers (C/green) into the tr_0-3 in the previous round, don’t remove them after working the 2tog sts into these Fls; you will be working into them again.

Round 31: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 
puff-a, 3 sc, sc in BLO, 3 sc,
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in
BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 
2 sc, tr_0-3 in FLO, 3 sc, sc in BLO, 3 sc, tr_0-3 in FLO, 
sc, 2tog-a, 3 sc, dcbb, 3 sc, dcbb, 3 sc, 2tog-b, sc, 
tr_0-3 in FLO, 3 sc, sc in BLO, 3 sc, tr_0-3 in FLO, 2 sc, 
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO,
3 sc, sc in
BLO, 3 sc, puff-a] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
61 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 32: 

  • Colour A in the third and fourth free FL of the sts from Round 30
  • Colour B  in the second and next -to-last free FL of the sts from Round 30
  • Colour C in the top loops of the 2tog sts made in this round
  • Colour D in the first and last free FL of the sts from Round 30

Special Stitches in Round 32:

  • dcbb double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st
  • dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red – third and fourth stm; B/blue stm – second and next-to-last stm; D/orange – first and last stm)
  • dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red – third and fourth stm; B/blue stm – second and next-to-last stm; D/orange – first and last stm)  
  • Puff-a stPuff around st – yo, insert hook into the chain space 2 rounds below, yo and pull up a loop) 3 times (7 loops on the hook), yo and pull through all loops, ch1 to close the st (ch1 is part of the st) 

Skip 1 st behind (dcbb: in front of) each special st 

Note: If you have placed st markers (Colour B/blue) in the previous round, don’t remove them after working the dcs in these FLs; you will be working into them again.

Round 32: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 
puff-a, 3 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 
2 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 
5 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 
4 sc, dcbb, 11 sc, dcbb, 4 sc,
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in
BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 
5 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 
2 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 3 sc, puff-a] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
63 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 33: 

  • Colour A in the second and next -to-last free FL of the sts from Round 31
  • Colour D in the first and last free FL of the sts from Round 31

Special Stitches in Round 33:

  • dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red stm)
  • dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red stm)  
  • tr_0-3 in FLOtreble in  front loop only of the st 3 rounds below the next st (B/blue stm; work the tr between the dcs from 1 round below)
  • fptr_+1-3front post treble around the st 1 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st
  • fptr_-1-3front post treble around the st 1 behind and 3 rounds below the next st
  • fptr_+2-2front post treble around the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st
  • fptr_-2-2front post treble around the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
  • Rose bud – 3 sc in BLO of the next st, 4 sc in FLO of the same st, ss in the third loop of the first st, continue in the next st; turn your work as you go
  • Puff-a stPuff around st – yo, insert hook into the chain space 2 rounds below, yo and pull up a loop) 3 times (7 loops on the hook), yo and pull through all loops, ch1 to close the st (ch1 is part of the st)
  • Small Rose – ((dc, ch1) twice, dc) into the FLO of the st 2 rounds below, pull the loop, remove hook from the loop, insert the hook in the top of the first of the dcs, grab the loop and pull through, ch1 to close the small rose (ch1 is part of the st)(D/orange stm)

Skip 1 st behind each special st (except the rose bud)

  Note: If you have placed st markers (Colour C/green) in Round 31, don’t remove them after working the fptr_+2-2 and fptr_-2-2 around these sts; you will be working into their top loops in a later round;
– Please refer to notes on st markers for Rose bud 

Round 33: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 
puff-a, 5 sc, small rose, 2 sc, fptr_-1-3, sc, tr_0-3 in FLO, 6 sc,
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 2 sc, 
fptr_+2-2, (3 sc, rose bud) 3 times, 3 sc, fptr_-2-2, 
2 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 6 sc,
tr_0-3 in FLO, sc, fptr_+1-3, 2 sc, small rose, 5 sc, puff-a] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
65 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 34 and 35: 

  • Colour A in the free FL of the sts from Round 31 

Special Stitches in Round 34:

  • dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red stm)
  • dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red stm)  
  • tr_0-3treble in the st 3 rounds below the next st (C/green stm) 
  • dtr_0-4double treble in the st 4 rounds below the next st (C/green stm)
  • Puff-a stPuff around st – yo, insert hook into the chain space 2 rounds below, yo and pull up a loop) 3 times (7 loops on the hook), yo and pull through all loops, ch1 to close the st (ch1 is part of the st)

Skip 1 st behind each special st

Note: If you have placed st markers (Colour A/red) in Round 33, don’t remove them after working the dcs; you will be working into them again in a later round.

Round 34: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 
puff-a, 15 sc, sc in BLO, 2 sc,
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 
4 sc, tr_0-3, (3 sc, dtr_0-4) twice, 3 sc, tr_0-3, 4 sc, 
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc, dc_-1-2 in FLO,
2 sc, sc in
BLO, 15 sc, puff-a] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
67 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 35: 

  • Colour A in the free FL of the sts from Round 33

Suggested stitch marker placements for Round 38: 

  • Colour C in the top loops of the dtr_0-4 and tr_0-3 made in this round

Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart 
Your purchase includes all parts for the pattern; Part 1 and Part 2 are already in the library; Parts 3 and 4 as well as the photo tutorials for all parts will be delivered as updates.

Not on Ravelry?

Purchase each part individually through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop 
Spread the expense – get the single parts for the reduced price as they are released.

Claire Part 1
Claire Part 2
Claire Part 3 
Claire Part 4 

Special Stitches in Round 35:

  • dc_+1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red stm)
  • dc_-1-2 in FLOdouble crochet in front loop only of the st 1 behind and 2 rounds below the next st (A/red stm)  
  • tr_0-3 in FLOtreble in  front loop only of the st 3 rounds below the next st (A/red stm; work the tr between the dcs from 1 round below)
  • 2tog-a – fptr_+2-2/dtr_+4-1/>2tog2 sts together with  
    • leg 1:  a front post treble around the st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below the next st  and 
    • leg 2:  a double treble in the top loops of the st 4 ahead and 1 round below the next st
  • 2tog-b – dtr_-4-1/fptr_-2-2/>2tog2 sts together with 
    • leg 1: a double treble in top loops of the st 4 behind and 1 round below the next st and
    • leg 2:  a front post treble around the st 2 behind and 2 rounds below the next st
  • 2tog-c – dcbb/dtr_+4-1/>2tog – 2 sts together with 
    • leg 1:  a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st and 
    • leg 2: a double treble in the top loops of the st 4 ahead and 1 round below the next st
  • 2tog-d – dtr_-4-1/dcbb/>2tog2 sts together with 
    • leg 1: a double treble in top loops of the st 4 behind and 1 round below the next st and 
    • leg 2: a double crochet into the st behind and (2 rounds) below the next st
  • Puff-a stPuff around st – yo, insert hook into the chain space 2 rounds below,
    yo and pull up a loop) 3 times (7 loops on the hook), yo and pull through all loops,
    ch1 to close the st (ch1 is part of the st)

Skip 1 st behind each special st

Round 35: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 
puff-a, sc, (sc in BLO, 3 sc) 3 times, 2 sc, 
dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 2 sc, tr_0-3 in FLO, sc, 
2tog-a, 3 sc, 2tog-c, (3 sc, dcbb) twice, 3 sc, 2tog-d, 3 sc, 2tog-b, 
sc, tr_0-3 in FLO, 2 sc, dc_+1-2 in FLO, sc in BLO, dc_-1-2 in FLO, 
5 sc, (sc in BLO, 3 sc) twice, sc in BLO, sc,  puff-a] 4 times

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
69 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placements for Round 36: 

  • Colour A in the fourth and fifth free FL of the sts from Round 31
  • Colour D in the first and last three free FL of the sts from Round 34

Suggested stitch marker placement for Round 38: 

  • Colour C in the top loops of the 2tog-a and 2tog-b sts made in this round

We will continue Claire in Part 3 with Rounds 36 to 50 

Add the pattern to your Ravelry cart 
Your purchase includes all parts for the pattern; Part 1 and Part 2 are already in the library; Parts 3 and 4 as well as the photo tutorials for all parts will be delivered as updates.

Not on Ravelry?

Purchase each part individually through the Black Sheep Crochet Shop 
Spread the expense – get the single parts for the reduced price as they are released.

Claire Part 1
Claire Part 2
Claire Part 3 
Claire Part 4 

If you want to take pretty pictures, you can block your square. 

There are different ways to block a square, which I will write about in a different post.

You can go thrifty or luxurious with your blocking tools* or a mixture of both. Either way, your squares will most likely look straighter with an increased stitch definition when they have been blocked. 

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