Welcome to week of the Wrapped In Jamie CAL, where you are going to learn how to crochet Square 2 – Sawny.
By now I presume you have read the Introduction page or Introduction info sheet and the Stitch Collection (free resources from the Shop) and made yourself familiar with the basic stitches used in the pattern as well as the anatomy of how the special stitches are written.
Both resources contain important information that will make your CAL easier to navigate.
SCROLL DOWN TO GET TO THE FREE PATTERN
Skill Level
Adventurous beginner to intermediate crocheter. (The stitches are easy, you just need to concentrate a little).
In saying that, you should be familiar with single crochet, double/treble/double treble crochet and how to work a front post stitch. If you are not, please refer to the Stitch Collection.
Recommended Yarn and Yardage
Drops Baby Merino Fingering/Sock/4ply
Gauge 24 sts x 32 rows with a 3mm/US2.5/D-3/UK 11 hook
175m/50g (191yds/1.75oz)
(available as part of a yarn kit from Wool Warehouse)
Yarn Requirements:
Inner Square: approximately 80m/90yds
Lincraft Homebrand DK/Light Worsted/8ply
Gauge 22 sts x 30 rows with a 4mm/US G/6/UK8 hook
100m/50g ( 110yds/1.75oz)
(sadly, available in Australia only)
Yarn Requirements:
Inner Square: approximately 95m/105yds
Drops Paris Worsted/Aran/10ply
Gauge 17 sts x 22 rows with a 5mm/US-H/8/UK-6 hook
75m/50g (82yds/1.75oz)
(available as part of a yarn kit from Wool Warehouse)
Yarn Requirements:
Inner Square: approximately 113m/124yds
You will also need:
- hook as recommended for your choice of yarn
- scissors
- darning needle to weave in end
- stitch markers (optional, but highly recommended; this could even be a yarn scrap, a paper clip or hair boppins)
Terminology used
This pattern uses US terminology throughout.
Abbreviations and the most basic stitches are explained in the Stitch Collection (which is constantly updated), stitches relevant for this specific pattern are outlined below.
Video Tutorials
A Video Tutorial for this patterns is available here:
Wrapped In Jamie Video Tutorial Square 2 – Sawny right -handed (also embedded below – scroll down to pattern)
Wrapped In Jamie Video Tutorial Square 2 – Sawny left-handed (also embedded below – scroll down to pattern)
PDF Download
An ad-free PDF in US terms is available for AUS$2.95. The pattern is on sale within the first week of release for AUS$2 and you can use your VIP Discount Code to reduce the price to $1.60 (approx. US$1.10 at the time of writing)
An ad-free PDF in UK terms is available in the shop.
Download includes written pattern.
If you have all the information you need to start with the pattern, simply scroll down. The pattern is provided for free indefinitely (or as long as I or those who take over from me when I am gone can manage to pay for hosting).
If you know of someone who you think might enjoy the patterns, please send them directly to this website. Thank you.
Pattern Notes:
- We are using the Magic Circle (MC), slip stitch (ss), single crochet (sc), double crochet (dc), half treble (htr) and front post half treble (fphtr)
- Ch1 at the beginning of a round does not count as a stitch.
Special Stitches:
Tr/fpdctog – Treble and front post double crochet together – yo twice, insert hook into FLO of st 2 behind and 1 round below next, yo and pull through, [yo and pull through 2 loops] twice, yo, insert hook behind fphtr from 2 rounds below, yo and pull through, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through remaining 3 loops
Dc/tr2tog – double crochet and treble crochet together – yo, insert hook behind 2nd htr from 2 rounds below, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo twice, insert hook in FLO of st 2 ahead and 1 round below, yo and pull through, [yo and pull through 2 loops] twice, yo and pull through remaining 3 loops
Dcbb – double crochet behind and below – double crochet into stitch directly behind and one round below the next stitch
Fphtr-2a-2b – Front post half treble around st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below
Fphtr-2b-2b – Front post half treble around st 2 behind and 2 rounds below
Feel free to follow your own colourway and make your insides all the same colour or make them solid or mix and match insides and borders to your heart’s content. I would like for you to make this as much as possible your CAL project and I look forward to seeing your photos. Please tag me in any social media posts and use #wrappedinjamiecal or #desingedbyblacksheepcrochet so I can admire your work.
For those of you who asked for it, here are my recommendations for colour choices:
If you follow the Storyteller colourway, I recommend a natural or soft brown colour.
Using the yarn kits with six colours for the Diamond Kilt Claire 20, this would be my suggestion:
Jamie: solid square – medium brown; mixed square – medium brown for the inside square, dark brown for the square border
Claire: solid square – dusky rose; mixed square – dusky rose for the inside square, grey for the square border
Scotland: solid square – medium green; mixed square – medium green for the inside square, darkest green for the square border
(Some Scotland colourways contain a light heather, others a light or dark blue or a sea grass colour. The drawing considers those three options)
Jamie
Claire
Scotland
Pattern Chart
The fabulous CAL – Crochet A Long Charters Naomi and Yolanda of Haakplein have created a crochet chart for those who prefer to use them over written instructions.
Thanks to Jo for her excellent editing not only of the chart, but also the pattern and photo tutorial.
You can download a free printable version from the shop.
Mind you, even if you rather follow the written pattern, the chart is a great visual reference to help with stitch placement if you are ever unsure.
Translations
Thanks to the CAL – Crochet A Long translator team, we (will) have this square pattern available in several languages, including German, UK terms, French, Finnish, Swedish, Czech, Russian, Dutch and others.
You can find the PDFs on this page:
Wrapped In Jamie CAL Translations
Please note that some translations are not finished yet, but will be added shortly. Pattern in bold and underlined can already be downloaded at the links provided in the shop.
Remember
Remember to skip a st in the current round for each st worked around or in FLO of a previous round, unless instructed otherwise as explained in the Introduction!
Abbreviations
MC – Magic Circle
ch – chain
sk – skip
st/s – stitch/es
ss or sl st – slip stitch
FLO – front loop only
BLO – back loop only
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
htr – half treble crochet
tr – treble crochet
dtr – double treble crochet
fp – front post
fpdc – front post double crochet
dcbb – double crochet behind and below
Special Stitches:
Tr/fpdctog – Treble and front post double crochet together – yo twice, insert hook into FLO of st 2 behind and 1 round below next, yo and pull through, [yo and pull through 2 loops] twice, yo, insert hook behind fphtr from 2 rounds below, yo and pull through, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo and pull through remaining 3 loops
Dc/tr2tog – double crochet and treble crochet together – yo, insert hook behind 2nd htr from 2 rounds below, yo and pull through 2 loops, yo twice, insert hook in FLO of st 2 ahead and 1 round below, yo and pull through, [yo and pull through 2 loops] twice, yo and pull through remaining 3 loops
Dcbb – double crochet behind and below – double crochet into stitch directly behind and one round below the next stitch
Fphtr-2a-2b – Front post half treble around st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below
Fphtr-2b-2b – Front post half treble around st 2 behind and 2 rounds below
The Pattern
Begin with a Magic Circle. If you are unfamiliar with the MC or don’t want to use it and you don’t mind the hole in the middle of the square, you can start with ch 2 and crochet round 1 into the first ch.
Round 1: Ch1, [sc into magic circle, ch2] 4 times. Close your magic circle tightly.
Ss into the first sc to close the round (keep this ss loose as it will replace the sc below).
Tip: If you crochet over your loose tail, you can save yourself having to weave ends in later.
From here on, please make sure to find the first stitch, as it may sometimes be hidden by the second sc of the corner (sc, ch2, sc)
Round 2:
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc in next st] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first sc of the starting corner. – 3 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Round 3:
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc in BLO, sc, sc in BLO] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first sc of the starting corner. – 5 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Round 4:
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, fphdc around the next st, dc in FLO of st 1 round below, sc, dc in FLO of st 1 round below, fphdc around next st] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first sc of the starting corner. – 7 sts plus ch2 corner space per side
Tip: work the fphdc very lose, so you can work around it easier in Round 6
4.1- fphdc around indicated st
4.2 – dc in FLO of st 1 round below (indicated)
4.3 – sl st into the top of first st
Round 5: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc across] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 9 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Round 6: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, fphtr-2a-2b (around fphdc from Round 4), fphtr-2a-2b (around dc from Round 4), 5 sc, fphtr-2b-2b (around dc from Round 4), fphtr-2b-2b (around fphdc from Round 4] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 11 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Tip: the first stitch can sometimes be hidden behind the 2nd sc of the corner, so make sure to pull the corner to the side and only skip two stitches, not accidentally three.
6.1 – fphtr-2a-2b around indicated st (hdc)
6.2 – fphtr-2a-2b around indicated st (dc)
6.3 – 1 – skip 2 sts; 2 – sc in next st
6.4 – fphtr-2b-2b around indicated st (dc)
6.5 – fphtr-2b-2b around indicated st (hdc)
6.6 – 1 – skip both sts; 2 – sc directly into corner space
6.7 – sl st into 1st st to close
Round 7: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc across {11 sc on each side in this round}] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 13 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Round 8: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc, sc in BLO, 2 sc, 2 fphtr-2b-2b (around each of the 2 fphtr from 2 sts behind and 2 rounds below), sc, 2 fphtr-2a-2b (around each of the 2 fphtr from 2 sts ahead and 2 rounds below), 2 sc, sc in BLO, sc] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 15 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
8.1 – fphtr-2b-2b around indicated st (fphtr)
8.2 – fphtr-2b-2b around indicated st (fphtr)
8.3 – 1 – skip both indicated sts; 2 – next st into indicated
8.4 – fphtr-2a-2b around indicated st
8.5 – fphtr-2a-2b around indicated st
8.6 – 1 – skip both indicated sts; 2 – next st into indicated
8.7 – 1 – sc in BLO; 2 – last st
Special Stitches in Round 9:
Tr-2b-1b/fpdc2tog – 2 stitches together with 1st leg = treble in FLO of st 2 behind and 1 round below and 2nd leg = fpdc around fphtr from previous round (Round 8)
fpdc/tr-2a-1btog – 2 stitches together with 1st leg = fpdc around fphtr from previous round and 2nd leg = treble in FLO of st 2 ahead and 1 round below
Round 9: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 2 sc, sc in BLO of next st, sc, tr-2b-1b/fpdctog, dcbb in next 2 sts, sc, dcbb in next 2 sts, fpdc/tr-2a-1btog, sc, sc in BLO of next st, 2 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 17 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Tip: in the second half of the side (after the fpdc/tr-2a-1btog) the stitches are a bit tangled and it is easier to count back 4 stitches from the corner to find the next st to work into. Your 2nd st (sc in BLO) should be exactly above the sc in BLO from the previous round.
9.1 – tr-2b-1b/pfdctog: 1st leg in indicated FLO
9.2 – tr-2b-1b/fpdctog: 2nd leg around indicated st
9.3 – finished tr-2b-1b-fpdctog
9.4- dcbb into 2 sts indicated
9.5 – fpdc/tr-2a-1btog: 1st leg around indicated st
9.6 – fpdc/tr-2a-1btog: 2nd leg in indicated FLO
Special Stitches in Round 10:
tr-2a-2b – treble into FLO of st 2 ahead and 2 rounds below
htr-1a-1b – half treble in FLO of st 1 ahead and 1 round below
tr-2ba-1b-2tog – 2 treble together with 1st leg in FLO of st 2 behind and 1 round below and 2nd leg into top loops of fphtr 2 ahead and 2 rounds below
tr-2ab-1b-2tog – 2 treble together with 1st leg into top loops of fphtr 2 sts ahead and 2 rounds below and 2nd leg in FLO of st 2 ahead and 1 round below
tr-2b-2b – treble into FLO of st 2 behind and 2 rounds below
htr-1b-1b – half treble in FLO of st 1 behind and 1 round below
Round 10: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc, tr-2a-2b, htr-1a-1b, 2 sc, tr-2ba-1b-2tog, 5 sc, tr-2ba-1b-2tog, 2 sc, htr-1b-1b, tr-2b-2b, sc] 4 times. Ss into the top of the first st. – 19 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Hints and Checkpoints:
– the FLO shown in pic. 10.2 can be hidden by the stitches from the previous round
– the 3rd sc of the 5 sc group should be directly above the one sc from the previous round
– after making the last tr-2b-2b, you should have 3 sts left before the corner (as in pic. 10.10)
10.1 – tr-2a-2b into indicated FLO
10.2 – htr-1a-1b into indicated FLO
10.3 – skip 2 sts, next sc into indicated st
10.4- tr-2ba-1b-tog: 1st leg into indicated FLO
10.5 – tr-2ba-1b-2tog: 2nd leg into indicated loops
10.6 – skip 1 st, next sc into indicated st
10.7- tr-2ba-1b-tog: 1st leg into indicated loops
10.8 – tr-2ba-1b-2tog: 2nd leg into indicated FLO
10.9 – skip 1 st, next sc into indicated st
10.10 – htr-1b1b into indicated FLO
10.11 – tr-2b2b into indicated FLO
Round 11: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 2 sc, 2 dcbb, 2 sc, dcbb, 5 sc, dcbb, 2sc, 2 dcbb, 2 sc] 4 times.
Sl st into the top of the first st. – 21 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
11.1 – 2 sc
11.2 – dcbb into indicated loops
11.3 – dcbb into indicated loops
Special Stitches in Round 12:
fptr-2b-1b – fptr around the tr respectively htr 2 sts behind and 2 rounds below
fptr-2a-1b – 1 fptr around the htr respectively tr 2 ahead and 2 rounds below
Round 12: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 5 sc, 2 fptr-2b-1b, 7 sc, 2 fptr-2a-1b, 5 sc] 4 times. Ss into the top of the first st. – 23 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Checkpoints:
– the first of the 7 sc group in the middle of the side will be directly above the trtog from round 10
– the first sc of the 5 sc group in the second half of the side will be made into the 5th st back from the corner
12.1 – fptr-2b-2b around indicated st
12.2 – fptr-2b-2b around indicated st
12.3 – skip 2 sts, next sc into indicated st
12.4 – fptr-2a-2b around indicated st
12.2 – fptr-2a-2b around indicated st
12.6 – skip 2 sts, next sc into indicated st
Round 13: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 6 sc, fpdc around each of the next 2 sts from previous round, 7 sc, fpdc around each of the next 2 sts from previous round, 6 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 25 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
13.1 – fpdc around indicated st
13.2 – fpdc around indicated st
13.3 – skip 2 sts, next sc into indicated st
13.4 – fpdc around indicated st
13.5 – fpdc around indicated st
13.6 – skip 2 sts, next sc into indicated st
Round 14: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc in 3rd loop* across {25 st on each side in this round}] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 27 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
14.1 – sc in 3rd loop or bpsc across
Round 15: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 7 sc, 2 htr in each of the tops of the next 2 sts (fpdc from 2 rounds below), 5 sc, 2 htr in each of the tops of the next 2 sts (fpdc from 2 rounds below), 7 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 29 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
15.1 – 2 htr into indicated st
15.2 – 2 htr into indicated st
15.3 – skip 4 sts, next sc into indicated st
15.4 – 2 htr into indicated st
15.2 – 2 htr into indicated st
Round 16: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 8 sc, 4 dcbb (place stitch marker in top of the 4th of the dcbb), 5 sc, 4 dcbb (place stitch marker in top of the 4th dcbb), 8 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 31 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
If you haven’t done it yet, place a stitch marker in the 4th of each of the dcbb’s from the previous round. It will make finding the correct stitch much easier.
16.1 – dcbb into indicated and next 3 sts
16.2 – next sc into indicated st
16.3 – dcbb into indicated and next 3 sts
16.4 – next sc into indicated st
Special Stitch in Round 17:
dc2tog – 2 dc together in the top of next 2 htr from 2 rounds below
Round 17: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 10 sc, 2 dc2tog, 7 sc (1st sc goes in the st with the st marker), 2 dc2tog, 10 sc (1st sc goes into the st with the st marker)] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 33 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
17.1 – Stitch marker in 4th dcbb of each group
17.2 – dc2tog around indicated st
17.3 – dc2tog around indicated sts
17.4 – next sc into st with stitch marker
17.5 – dc2tog around indicated sts
17.6 – dc2tog around indicated sts
17.7 – next sc into st with stitch marker
Place a stitch marker in the top of the 2nd dc2tog of the 1st dc2tog group (=13th st from the right) and the 1st st after the 2nd dc2tog group (= 11th st from the left). (Left-handed crocheter: 13th from the left and 11th from the right). The fpsc will pucker up the 2 sts and it will be difficult to determine the correct st to work into afterwards. The first sc of each 9 sc group in each repeat will go into the stitches with the stitch markers.
Round 18: Ch1, {(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 11 sc, [fpsc around both dc2tog from previous round, 9 sc] twice, 2 sc} 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 35 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
18.1 – dc2tog around indicated st
18.2 – fpsc around indicated sts
18.3 – finished fpsc
18.4 – next sc into st with stitch marker
18.5 – fpsc around indicated sts
18.6 – next sc into st with stitch marker
Round 19: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc across {35 sc on each side this round}] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 37 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
If you choose to use a different colour for the border, now is the perfect time to fasten off the first colour, weave in the tails and attach the new colour in any of the corners. If you are not intending to work the square border, skip to Round 20. If you want to crochet the square border, continue with that pattern now.
Changing colour for Round 20:
Although you could add the new colour in any way you wish, the neatest way is by using a standing sc. If you choose this method, omit the ch1 and the first sc at the beginning of Round 20 and continue with the ch2 after the standing sc.
Round 20: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc in 3rd loop or bpsc across {37 sts on each side in this round}] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st or cut yarn and finish with an invisible join. – 39 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
The inner part of your Sawny square is now finished 🙂
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