Welcome to week 6 of the Wrapped In Jamie CAL, where you are going to learn how to crochet Square 5 – Manners And Chess.
There is a new stitch collection, now called the Outlandish Stitch Compendium, with
- a list of abbreviations for the most common stitches we use,
- pre-requisite stitches and how to make them,
- how to count stitches and rounds,
- stitch variations,
- working stitches in front, back and 3rd loops and ideas for alternatives if you don’t like the latter,
- a breakdown of angular stitch abbreviation and how to work them, (with step-by-step samples),
- front- and back-post stitches explained
- and three different kinds of 2-together stitches we regularly use in almost all squares of this CAL
There will also be an updated Introduction – now called Wrapped In Jamie – The Trailer – which will be available very soon.
Both resources can be found free of charge in the shop shortly
Wrapped In Jamie – The Trailer (Introduction) – coming soon
Outlandish Stitch Compendium for the Wrapped In Jamie CAL (coming soon)
IF YOU ARE ALL SET AND READY TO GET HOOKING, SCROLL DOWN TO GET TO THE FREE PATTERN
Skill Level
Adventurous beginner to intermediate crocheter. (The stitches are easy, you just need to concentrate a little).
In saying that, you should definitely be familiar with the stitches outlined in the Stitch Compendium.
Recommended Yarn and Yardage
Drops Baby Merino Fingering/Sock/4ply
Gauge 24 sts x 32 rows with a 3mm/US2.5/D-3/UK 11 hook
175m/50g (191yds/1.75oz)
(available as part of a yarn kit from Wool Warehouse)
Yarn Requirements:
Inner Square: approximately 80m/90yds
Lincraft Homebrand DK/Light Worsted/8ply
Gauge 22 sts x 30 rows with a 4mm/US G/6/UK8 hook
100m/50g ( 110yds/1.75oz)
(sadly, available in Australia only)
Yarn Requirements:
Inner Square: approximately 95m/105yds
Drops Paris Worsted/Aran/10ply
Gauge 17 sts x 22 rows with a 5mm/US-H/8/UK-6 hook
75m/50g (82yds/1.75oz)
(available as part of a yarn kit from Wool Warehouse)
Yarn Requirements:
Inner Square: approximately 113m/124yds
You will also need:
- hook as recommended for your choice of yarn
- scissors
- darning needle to weave in end
- stitch markers (optional, but highly recommended; this could even be a yarn scrap, a paper clip or hair boppins)
Terminology used
This pattern uses US terminology throughout.
Abbreviations and the most basic stitches are explained in the Stitch Collection (which is constantly updated), stitches relevant for this specific pattern are outlined below.
Video Tutorials
A Video Tutorial for this patterns is available here:
Wrapped In Jamie Video Tutorial Square 5 – Manners and Chess right-handed (also embedded below – scroll down to pattern)
Wrapped In Jamie Video Tutorial Square 5 Manners And Chess left-handed (also embedded below – scroll down to pattern)
PDF Download
An ad-free PDF in US terms is available for AUS$2.95. The pattern is on sale within the first week of release for AUS$2 and you can use your VIP Discount Code to reduce the price to $1.60 (approx. US$1.10 at the time of writing)
If you have all the information you need to start with the pattern, simply scroll down. The pattern is provided for free indefinitely (or as long as I or those who take over from me when I am gone can manage to pay for hosting).
If you know of someone who you think might enjoy the patterns, please send them directly to this website. Thank you.
Pattern Notes:
- We are using basic and pre-requisite stitches as outlined in the Outlandish Stitch Compendium
- Ch1 at the beginning of a round does not count as a ‘stitch’.
Feel free to follow your own colourway and make your insides all the same colour or make them solid or mix and match insides and borders to your heart’s content. I would like for you to make this as much as possible your CAL project and I look forward to seeing your photos.
Please tag me in any social media posts and use #wrappedinjamiecal, @black_sheep_crochet or #desingedbyblacksheepcrochet so I can admire your work.
For those of you who asked for it, here are my recommendations for colour choices:
If you follow the Storyteller colourway, I recommend a peachy or soft pink for this square.
Using the yarn kits with six colours for the Diamond Kilt Claire 20, this would be my suggestion:
Jamie: solid square – grey; mixed square – grey for the inside square, green for the square border
Claire: solid square – mint; mixed square – mint for the inside square, light brown for the square border
Scotland: solid square – sea grass/blue/heather (depending on your kit); mixed square – sea grass/blue/heather for the inside square, dark brown for the square border
(Some Scotland colourways contain a light heather, others a light or dark blue or a sea grass colour. The drawing considers those three options)
Jamie
Claire
Scotland
Pattern Chart
Coming soon
Translations
Thanks to a lot of people busily working in the background, there will be translations in different languages. They will be uploaded and linked to here when they are ready.
Remember
Remember to skip a st in the current round for each st worked around or in FLO of a previous round, unless instructed otherwise as explained in the Introduction!
Abbreviations
MC – Magic Circle
ch – chain
sk – skip
st/s – stitch/es
ss or sl st – slip stitch
FLO – front loop only
BLO – back loop only
sc – single crochet
hdc – half double crochet
dc – double crochet
htr – half treble crochet
tr – treble crochet
dtr – double treble crochet
fp – front post
fpdc – front post double crochet
dcbb – double crochet behind and below
Special Stitches:
dcbb – double crochet into the stitch behind and below next st (2 rounds below)
tr-2a-1b – tr in the front loop 2 sts ahead and 1 round below
tr-2b-1b – tr in the front loop 2 sts behind and 1 round below
tr-2b – treble in the FLO of the st directly 2 rounds below
fptr-2a-2b – treble around the st 2 sts ahead and 2 rounds below
fptr-2b-2b – treble around the st 2 sts ahead behind and 2 rounds below
Popcorn st-2b – 4 double crochet into the top loops of the stitch 2 rounds below, pull up the loop, remove hook from the loops of the 4th dc and insert it into the loops of the first dcs (front to back, as usual), grab the loop from 4th dc and pull through; close popcorn with a ch1 (closing with ch1 does not count as stitch)
fptr-1b-2b/tr-3a-2b-2tog – with 1st leg around the fptr 1 ahead and 2 rounds below and 2nd leg into the FLO of st 3 ahead and 2 rounds below
tr-3b-2b/fptr-1b-2b-2tog – with 1st leg into the FLO of st 3 behind and 2 rounds below and 2nd leg around the fptr 1 behind and 2 rounds below
dtr/tr-2tog – yo 3 times, insert hook into FLO of indicated st, yo and pull through, (yo and pull through 2 loops) 3 times, yo twice, insert hook into FLO of indicated st, yo and pull through, (yo and pull through 2 loops) twice, yo and pull through all 3 remaining loops
dtr-1ab-4b-2tog – yo 3 times, insert hook into FLO of st 1 behind and 4 rounds below, yo and pull through, (yo and pull through 2 loops) 3 times, yo 3 times, insert hook into FLO of st 1 ahead and 4 rounds below, yo and pull through, (yo and pull through 2 loops) 3 times, yo and pull through all 3 remaining loops
The Pattern
Begin with a Magic Circle. If you are unfamiliar with the MC or don’t want to use it and you don’t mind the hole in the middle of the square, you can start with ch 2 and crochet round 1 into the first ch.
Round 1: Ch1, [sc into magic circle, ch2] 4 times. Close your magic circle tightly.
Ss into the first sc to close the round.
Tip: If you crochet over your loose tail, you can save yourself having to weave ends in later.
From here on, please make sure to find the first stitch, as it may sometimes be hidden by the second sc of the corner (sc, ch2, sc)
Round 2:
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc in next stitch] 4 times..
Ss into the top of the first sc of the starting corner. – 3 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Round 3:
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 3 sc across] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first sc of the starting corner. – 5 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Round 4:
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, (sc, sc in BLO) twice, sc] 4 times..
Ss into the top of the first sc of the starting corner. – 7 sts plus ch2 corner space per side
A visual would look like this
(where x=sc and _=sc in BLO)
x_x_x
Round 5:
Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, tr-2a-1b, 5 sc, tr-2b-1b] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 9 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
5.1 – tr-2a-2b into indicated front loop
5.2 – skip indicated st (behind tr-2a-2b)
5.3 – tr-2b-2b into indicated front loop
Special Stitch in Round 6:
dcbb – double crochet into the stitch behind and below the next st (2 rounds below)
Round 6: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc, dcbb, 5 sc, dcbb, sc] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 11 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
6.1 – dcbb behind tr-2a-2b (indicated)
6.2 – dcbb behind tr-2b-2b (indicated)
Special Stitches in Round 7:
fptr-2a-2b – front post treble around the st 2 sts ahead and 2 rounds below
fptr-2b-2b – front post treble around the st 2 sts ahead behind and 2 rounds below
Round 7: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, fptr-2a-2b, (sc, sc in BLO of next st) 4 times, sc, fptr-2b-2b] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 13 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
7.1 –fptr-2a-2b around indicated st
7.2 – skip the st behind fptr (indicated)
7.3 – fptr-2b-2b around indicated st, sc in corner next
Special Stitch in Round 8:
dcbb – double crochet into the stitch behind and below next st (2 rounds below)
Round 8: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc, dcbb, 9 sc, dcbb, sc] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 15 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
8.1 – dcbb behind fptr-2a-2b (indicated)
8.2 – dcbb behind fptr-2b-2b (indicated)
Special Stitches in Round 9:
fptr-1a-2b/tr-3a-2b-2tog – with 1st leg around the fptr 1 ahead and 2 rounds below and 2nd leg into the FLO of st 3 ahead and 2 rounds below (both in Round 7)
tr-3b-2b/fptr-1b-2b-2tog – with 1st leg into the FLO of st 3 behind and 2 rounds below and 2nd leg around the fptr 1 behind and 2 rounds below (both in Round 7)
Round 9: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc, fptr-1b-2b/tr-3a-2b-2tog, 11 sc, tr-3b-2b/fptr-1a-2b-2tog, sc] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 17 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Checkpoint: the last of the 11 sc group will fall into the 3rd st back from the corner
9.1 – fptr-1b-2b/tr-3a-2b-2tog around leg and into FLO indicated
9.2 – skip indicated st
9.3 – tr-3b-2b/fptr-1a-2b-2tog into FLO and around leg indicated
9.4 – skip indicated st
Special Stitches in Round 10:
tr-3b/dtr-2a-3b-2tog – with 1st leg in FLO of st 3 rounds directly below (Round 7 = same as 2nd leg from previous round), and 2nd leg into the FLO of st 2 ahead and 3 rounds below (Round 7)
dtr-2b-3b/tr-3b-2tog – with 1st leg in FLO of st 2 behind and 3 rounds below (Round 7) and 2nd leg in FLO of st 3 rounds directly below (Round 7 = same as 1st leg from previous round)
dcbb – double crochet into the stitch behind and below the next st (2 rounds below)
Round 10: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 2 sc, dcbb, 2 sc, tr-3b/dtr-2a-3b-2tog, 5 sc, dtr-2b-3b/tr-3b-2tog, 2 sc, dcbb, 2 sc] 4 times. Ss into the top of the first st. – 19 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Checkpoint 1: the last of the 5 sc group will fall into the 4th st before the tr-3b-2b/fptr-1b-2b-2tog from the previous round
Checkpoint 2: the last of the 2 sc group after the dtr-2b-3b/tr-3b-2tog will fall into the st just before the tr-3b-2b/fptr-1b-2b-2tog from the previous round (=4th st back from the corner)
10.1 –2sc, dcbb behind indicated st, then 2sc
10.2 – tr-3b/dtr-2a-3b-2tog into indicated front loops
10.3 – skip indicated st, then 5 sc
10.4- dtr-2b-3b/tr-3b-2tog into indicated front loops
10.5 – skip indicated st, then 2 sc
10.6 – dc behind indicated st, then 2sc
Special Stitches in Round 11:
dtr-1ab-4b-2tog – yo 3 times, insert hook into FLO of st 1 behind and 4 rounds below (Round 7 = same as 2nd leg from previous round), yo and pull through, (yo and pull through 2 loops) 3 times, yo 3 times, insert hook into FLO of st 1 ahead and 4 rounds below (Round 7 = same as 1st leg from previous round), yo and pull through, (yo and pull through 2 loops) 3 times, yo and pull through all 3 remaining loops
dcbb – double crochet into the stitch behind and below the next st (2 rounds below)
Popcorn st-2b – 4 double crochet into the top loops of the stitch 2 rounds below, pull up the loop, remove hook from the loops of the 4th dc and insert it into the loops of the first dcs (front to back, as usual), grab the loop from 4th dc and pull through; close popcorn with a ch1 (closing with ch1 does not count as stitch)
Round 11: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 3 sc, popcorn st, 2 sc, dcbb, 2 sc, dtr-1ab-4b-2tog, 2 sc, dcbb, 2 sc, popcorn st, 3 sc] 4 times.
Sl st into the top of the first st. – 21 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
11.1 – 3 sc, then popcorn st into indicated top loops
11.2 – skip the st behind the popcorn, then 2 sc
11.3 – dcbb behind indicated st, then 2 sc
11.4 – dtr-1ab-4b-2tog with legs into indicated front loops
11.5 – skip the st behind the dtr, then 2 sc
11.6 – dc behind indicated st, then 2 sc
11.7 – popcorn st into indicated top loops
11.8 – skip st behind popcorn st, then 3 sc
Special Stitches in Round 12:
dcbb – double crochet into the stitch behind and below the next st (2 rounds below)
Popcorn st-2b – 4 double crochet into the top loops of the stitch 2 rounds below, pull up the loop, remove hook from the loops of the 4th dc and insert it into the loops of the first dcs (front to back, as usual), grab the loop from 4th dc and pull through; close popcorn with a ch1 (closing with ch1 does not count as stitch)
Round 12: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 4 sc, (dcbb, 2 sc, popcorn st, 2 sc) twice, dcbb, 4 sc] 4 times. Ss into the top of the first st. – 23 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
A visual for Round 12 (where x = sc, T = dcbb, O = Popcorn and _ = sc in BLO):
xxxxTxxOxxTxxOxxTxxxx
12.1 – dcbb behind the dtr (indicated), then 2 sc
12.2 – popcorn st into top loops of indicated st, skip st behind, then 2 sc
12.3 – dcbb behind the dtr (indicated), then 2 sc
12.4 – popcorn st into top loops of indicated st, skip st behind, then 2 sc
12.5 – dcbb behind the popcorn st (indicated), then 4 sc
Hint for Rounds 13/14, 19/20 (and 29/30 of the Border):
If you find making sc in the 3rd loop (in Rounds 14, 20 and 30) difficult, here are some ideas on how to make it easier:
- you could use a bigger hook to work Rounds 13, 19 and 29,
- make an effort to work the sc very loosely in this round,
- use a smaller hook for Rounds 14, 20 and 30 or
- make hdc instead of sc in Rounds 13, 19 and 29. If you choose this option, please be aware that making hdcs may alter the height of the round and that you should work Rounds 13, 19 and 29 in the same manner in all squares.
Special Stitches in Round 13:
dcbb – double crochet into the stitch behind and below the next st (2 rounds below)
Popcorn st-2b – 4 double crochet into the top loops of the stitch 2 rounds below, pull up the loop, remove hook from the loops of the 4th dc and insert it into the loops of the first dcs (front to back, as usual), grab the loop from 4th dc and pull through; close popcorn with a ch1 (closing with ch1 does not count as stitch)
Round 13: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 8 sc, dcbb, 2 sc, popcorn st, 2 sc, dcbb, 8 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 25 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
13.1 – 8s, then dcbb behind the popcorn st (indicated), then 2 sc
13.2 – popcorn st into top loops of indicated st, then 2 sc
13.3 – dcbb behind the popcorn st (indicated), then 8 sc
Round 14: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 25 sc in 3rd loop across] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 27 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
14.1 – sc in 3rd loop
Round 15: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, (sc in BLO of the next 3 sts, 3 sc) 4 times, sc in BLO of the next 3 sts] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 29 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
A visual for Round 15 (where x = sc and _ = sc in BLO)
_ _ _ xxx_ _ _xxx_ _ _xxx_ _ _xxx_ _ _
Round 16: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, sc across] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 31 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Special Stitch in Round 17:
tr-2b – treble in the FLO of the st directly 2 rounds below (Round 15)
Round 17: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 2 sc, (3 tr-2b, 3sc) 4 times, 3 tr-2b, 2 sc] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 33 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
A visual for Round 17 (where x = sc and T = treble):
xxTTTxxxTTTxxxTTTxxxTTTxxxTTTxx
17.1 – 2 sc, tr-2b in each of the indicated front loops
17.2 – skip indicated sts (behind the tr-2b)
17.3 – repeat tr-2b groups in each of indicated front loops
Special Stitch in Round 18:
dcbb – double crochet into the stitch behind and below the next st (2 rounds below)
Round 18: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 3 sc, (3 dcbb, 3 sc) 5 times] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 35 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
A visual for Round 18 (whee x = sc and T = dcbb)
xxxTTTxxxTTTxxxTTTxxxTTTxxxTTTxxx
Hint for Round 19:
The next round will be sc in 3rd loop, so work Round 19 according to your preferred option outlined in the Outlandish Stitch Compendium and above (before Round 13)
Round 19: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 35 sc across] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st. – 37 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
If you choose to use a different colour for the border, now is the perfect time to fasten off the first colour, weave in the tails and attach the new colour in any of the corners. If you are not intending to work the square border, skip to Round 20. If you want to crochet the square border, continue with that pattern now.
You can find the Border Pattern here:
Wrapped In Jamie Border Pattern
Changing colour for Round 20:
Although you could add the new colour in any way you wish, the neatest way is by using a standing sc. If you choose this method, omit the ch1 and the first sc at the beginning of Round 20 and continue with the ch2 after the standing sc.
Round 20: Ch1, [(sc, ch2, sc) into the ch2 corner space, 37 sc in 3rd loop] 4 times.
Ss into the top of the first st or cut yarn and finish with an invisible join. – 39 sts per side plus ch2 corner space
Your Square 5 – Manners And Chess is now finished 🙂
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