Love is in the Air Pattern UK terms

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Background Story and Designer's Thoughts

Read the background story to this square here:

LOVE is in the Air Background Story

and more thoughts to this square, especially its name and my special appeal here:

Have you noticed? LOVE is in the Air!

Wool Warehouse

Outlanding Stitch Compendium

“Petranese” is the Black Sheep Crochet way of writing overlay crochet patterns. 

If you are not yet familiar with this system, you can download your free copy of the Outlanding Stitch Compendium (in US terms – UK will come soon) with explanations, instructions and photo tutorials for some special stitches here:

Alternatively, visit the online version (currently still a work in progress) 

Outlanding Stitch Compendium Resource Page

Skill Level

My Heirloom squares are designed in overlay crochet technique, which requires an understanding of basic crochet terminology and stitches. Most overlay crochet patterns are therefore by default classified as intermediate or even advanced. 

The Outlanding Stitch Compendium, however, has been created with an adventurous beginner in mind. It contains explanations for every aspect that is relevant in order to comprehend the pattern. (see above for download or website options)

Because this square basically consists of three core rounds that are repeated over and over again, plus three extra, super easy additional rounds to round it up, I encourage you to give it a go even if you are a (adventurous) beginner. 

Gauge

Gauge is not important for these squares, but using the same yarn and tension for all squares and potentially the square border, big Claire square and triangles is. I recommend to make a small square swatch in your favourite yarn with different hooks to find the tension and drape you prefer. It may be a good idea to make a note of your final choice to keep with your project.

Here are some statistics for yarn my testers and I used to make the square:

 

Lincraft Cotton 8ply
(3 – Light Worsted / DK) 
100m / 50g –  109 yrds / 1.76 oz

7 rounds in pattern = 10cm x 10cm / 4″ x 4″ with a 3.5mm hook (US C2/D3, UK 10)

44 m / 22g – 48 yrds / 0.77 oz for a 13-round square
 14cm x 14cm / 5.5″ x 5.5″

110 m/55g – 121 yrds/1.95 oz for a 20-round square
22.5cm x 22.5cm / 9″ x 9″

Terminology

 Germanised Petranese in UK crochet terms

Explained: 
– I live in Australia, where we speak and write in British English. I usually write my patterns in US  terms, but have been asked for them in UK terms a lot.  

– My mother language is German (hence the Germanism including funny phrases, grammar and spelling mistakes)

– I could not find a way of easily describing stitch placements for overlay crochet special stitches, so I ‘invented’ a system. One of my facebook group members called it ‘Petranese‘. 

Video Tutorials

You can find all video tutorials for this and other released squares in my YouTube Channel for Black Sheep Crochet, where you can also subscribe for automatic notification when new videos are uploaded.

All videos are  in “Germanised British English US crochet terms Petranese”.

NO VIDEO TUTORIAL MAY BE CREATED FROM THIS PATTERN – IN ANY LANGUAGE – WITHOUT THE DESIGNER’S WRITTEN PERMISSION!

Thank you for your patience, while I am re-recording the videos.
It won't be long until they are available

PDF Download

Your resources for this pattern are
a free written pattern page (this one)
– including finished round pictures and
picture tutorial for tricky stitches
a free video tutorial (right-handed and left-handed version)
– pattern support in our dedicated Facebook and Ravelry groups

There is no obligation to download the PDF version of this pattern. If you are a bit tech savvy or know someone who is, you can make a PDF from the website.

However, if you like the pattern and want to support my design work or appreciate the pattern without ads to take along with you, there is an option to purchase the ad-free PDF version of this pattern for a small contribution through the shop. 

The pattern PDF is FREE with use of Discount Code

HIGHVIBES

Valid until Sunday, 10th of April 2020 

PDF purchases include the following bonuses:

  • a 32 page pattern booklet
  • my very own unofficial, hand ‘written’ design chart
  • Visuals for all rounds with special stitches / repeats or repeats within repeats / complicated rounds
  • Suggestions and photos for stitch marker placement
  • pattern as written pattern only AND detailed step-by-step, close-up photo tutorial pattern version

Translations

This patterns is  available in Germanised British English US crochet terms Petranese and UK crochet terms.

There are plans to have it translated into different languages soon.

THIS PATTERN MUST NOT BE TRANSLATED INTO ANOTHER LANGUAGE (EXCEPT FOR YOUR OWN PERSONAL USE) WITHOUT THE DESIGNER’S WRITTEN PERMISSION!

You will also need

  • scissors
  • darning needle to weave in ends
  • stitch markers* (optional, but highly recommended, this could even be a yarn scrap, a hair pin or a paperclip)

Reminder and Important Pattern Notes

For each special stitch you make in front, behind, around or in the front loop of another stitch from a previous round, you must leave the stitch behind or in front of the special stitch unworked (skip 1 stitch) unless instructed otherwise. 

The ch1 at the beginning of the round does not count as a stitch and will be skipped when we slip stitch into the first dc at the end of each round.

Keep the slip stitch that closes the round loose as it will replace the sc below as the last stitch of the next round.

The use of stitch markers* is optional and mainly intended to encourage and support less experienced crocheters. If finding free front loops is easy for you, you are likely to be quicker by crocheting without stitch markers.

Optionalstitch marker* placements are suggested for the adventurous beginner and may not be necessary for intermediate and advanced crocheters.

Suggestedstitch marker* placements are considered beneficial or essential for correct and easy stitch placement for all crochet levels.

If you follow the suggested stitch marker* placements, take the st markers out of the stitch or front loop after the special stitches have been worked, unless instructed otherwise.

Wool Warehouse

Crochet Terminology, Abbreviations and Punctuation

Basic Stitches - Abbreviations and Definitions

Special Stitches used in this pattern

Special stitches relevant for this pattern are outlined below and specified in more detail above each round.

Heart-V repeat = (dtr_+2-3 in FLO, 3 dc, dtr_-2-3 in FLO)

  • dtr_+2-3 in FLO double treble in FLO of the st 2 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st
  • dtr_-2-3 in FLO double treble in FLO of the st 2 behind and 3 rounds below the next st

RHB – Right Heart Bow = (fptr_-1-2/tr_+1-2 in FLO/<2tog) – 

2 sts together with 

  • first leg an unfinished front post treble crochet around the st 1  behind and 2 rounds below the next st (this is the dtr_+2-3 in FLO; 2 loops on hook) and 
  • second leg a treble crochet in FLO of the st 1  ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (3 loops on the hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops) 

LHB – Left Heart Bow = (tr_-1-2 in FLO/fptr_+1-2/<2tog) – 

2 sts together with 

  • first leg an unfinished treble crochet in FLO of the st 1  behind and 2 rounds below the next st (2 loops on hook) and 
  • second leg an unfinished front post treble crochet around the st 1  ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (dtr_-2-3 in FLO; 3 loops on the hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops)

Skip 1 st behind each special st

Pattern

Begin

with a Magic Circle (MC) or Double Magic Circle (DMC). 

If you are unfamiliar with the MC / DMC or don’t want to use it and you don’t mind the hole in the middle of the square, you can start with 2 ch and crocheting Round 1 into the first ch.

Shop Darn Good Yarn

Round 1

Ch1, [dc into MC / DMC, ch2] 4 times. Close your MC / DMC tightly.

Ss into the first dc of the corner to close the round . – 1 stitch per side plus ch2 corner space

Note: If you crochet over the loose tail for a few rounds, you won’t have to weave it in later

Round 2

Ch1, [(dc, ch2, dc) into the ch2 corner space, dc in BLO] 4 times. 

Ss into the first dc of the starting corner. –
3 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Round 3

Ch1, [(dc, ch2, dc) into the ch2 corner space,
3 dc] 4 times. 

Ss into the first dc of the starting corner. –
5 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Special Stitches in Round 4:

  • dtr_+2-3 in FLO double treble in FLO of the st 2 ahead and 3 rounds
    below the next st
  • dtr_-2-3 in FLO double treble in FLO of the st 2 behind and 3 rounds 

below the next st

Round 4

Ch1, [(dc, ch2, dc) into the ch2 corner space, tr_+2-3 in FLO, 3 dc, tr_-2-3 in FLO] 4 times.

Ss into the first dc of the starting corner. –
7 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Round 5

Ch1, [(dc, ch2, dc) into the ch2 corner space, dc in BLO*2 dc, dc in BLO*, repeat from * to * until the end of the side] 4 times.

Ss into the first dc of the starting corner. – 
9 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placement for the round ahead (Round 6): 

Colour B in every second free FL of the sts from the previous round

Optional stitch marker placement for 2 rounds ahead (Round 7): 

Colour A in every odd free FL of the sts from the previous round

Special Stitches in Round 6:

RHB – Right Heart Bow = (fptr_-1-2/tr_+1-2 in FLO/<2tog) – 

2 sts together with 

  • first leg an unfinished front post treble crochet around the st 1  behind and 2 rounds below the next st (this is the dtr_+2-3 in FLO; 2 loops on hook) and
  • second leg a treble crochet in FLO of the st 1  ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (3 loops on the hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops) 

LHB – Left Heart Bow = (tr_-1-2 in FLO/fptr_+1-2/<2tog) – 

2 sts together with 

  • first leg an unfinished treble crochet in FLO of the st 1  behind and 2 rounds below the next st (2 loops on hook) and 
  • second leg an unfinished front post treble crochet around the st 1  ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (dtr_-2-3 in FLO; 3 loops on the hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops)

Skip 1 st behind each special st

myBluprint.com

Round 6

Ch1, [(dc, ch2, dc) into the ch2 corner space, 3 dc, RHB, dc, LHB, 3 dc] 4 times.

Ss into the first dc of the starting corner. –
11 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Special Stitches in Round 7:

Heart-V repeat =  (dtr_+2-3 in FLO, 3 dc, dtr_-2-3 in FLO)

  • dtr_+2-3 in FLO double treble in FLO of the st 2 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st
  • dtr_-2-3 in FLO double treble in FLO of the st 2 behind and 3 rounds below the next st

Skip 1 st behind each special st

Round 7

Ch1, [(dc, ch2, dc) into the ch2 corner space, Heart-V, dc, Heart-V] 4 times

Ss into the first dc of the starting corner. –
13 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Round 8

Ch1, [(dc, ch2, dc) into the ch2 corner space, dc in BLO, *2 dc, dc in BLO*, repeat from * to * until the end of the side ] 4 times.

Ss into the first dc of the starting corner. –
15 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Optional stitch marker placement for the round ahead (Round 9): 

Colour B in every second free FL of the sts from the previous round 

Optional stitch marker placement for 2 rounds ahead (Round 10): 

Colour A in every odd free FL of the sts from the previous round

 

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Special Stitches in Round 9:

RHB – Right Heart Bow = (fptr_-1-2/tr_+1-2 in FLO/<2tog) – 

2 sts together with 

  • first leg an unfinished front post treble crochet around the st 1  behind and 2 rounds below the next st (this is the dtr_+2-3 in FLO; 2 loops on hook) and
  • second leg a treble crochet in FLO of the st 1  ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (3 loops on the hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops) 

LHB – Left Heart Bow = (tr_-1-2 in FLO/fptr_+1-2/<2tog) – 

2 sts together with 

  • first leg an unfinished treble crochet in FLO of the st 1  behind and 2 rounds below the next st (2 loops on hook) and 
  • second leg an unfinished front post treble crochet around the st 1  ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (dtr_-2-3 in FLO; 3 loops on the hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops)

Skip 1 st behind each special st

Round 9

Ch1, [(dc, ch2, dc) into the ch2 corner space, 3 dc, *RHB, dc, LHB, 3 dc*, repeat from * to * until the end of the side] 4 times.

Ss into the first dc of the starting corner. –
17 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Special Stitches in Round 10:

Heart-V repeat =  (dtr_+2-3 in FLO, 3 dc, dtr_-2-3 in FLO)

  • dtr_+2-3 in FLO double treble in FLO of the st 2 ahead and 3 rounds below the next st
  • dtr_-2-3 in FLO double treble in FLO of the st 2 behind and 3 rounds below the next st

Skip 1 st behind each special st

Round 10

Ch1, [(dc, ch2, dc) into the ch2 corner space, Heart-V, *dc, Heart-V*, repeat from * to * until the end of the side] 4 times. 

Ss into the first dc of the starting corner. –
19 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

For a small square, continue with Round 11. 

For a larger square, skip down to instructions after Round 14.

If you enjoy this pattern, please tell your friends about it on Ravelry, Facebook or Instagram. Let them – and me! – see your finished square with hashtag #black_sheep_crochet, #loveisintheair

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Shop Darn Good Yarn

Round 11

Ch1, [(dc, ch2, dc) into the ch2 corner space, 3 dc, * dc in BLO, 5 dc*, repeat from * to * until the end of the side, omit the last 2 sts] 4 times. 

Ss into the first sc of the starting corner. –
21 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Special Stitch in Round 12:

RHB – Right Heart Bow = (fptr_-1-2/tr_+1-2 in FLO/<2tog) – 

2 sts together with 

  • first leg an unfinished front post treble crochet around the st 1  behind and 2 rounds below the next st (this is the dtr_+2-3 in FLO; 2 loops on hook) and
  • second leg a treble crochet in FLO of the st 1  ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (3 loops on the hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops) 

LHB – Left Heart Bow = (tr_-1-2 in FLO/fptr_+1-2/<2tog) – 

2 sts together with 

  • first leg an unfinished treble crochet in FLO of the st 1  behind and 2 rounds below the next st (2 loops on hook) and 
  • second leg an unfinished front post treble crochet around the st 1  ahead and 2 rounds below the next st (dtr_-2-3 in FLO; 3 loops on the hook, yo and pull through all 3 loops)

Skip 1 st behind each special st

myBluprint.com

Round 12

Ch1, [(dc, ch2, dc) into the ch2 corner space, 3 dc, *RHB, dc, LHB, 3 dc*, repeat from * to * until the end of the side] 4 times.

Ss into the first dc of the starting corner. –
23 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Round 14 will be worked in 3rd loops only. If you find making sc in the 3rd loop difficult, please refer to ‘Hint for Rounds 13/14, 19/20 (and 29/30 of the Border)’ in the ‘Outlanding Stitch Compendium’ to make this easier.

Round 13

Ch1, [(dc, ch2, dc) into the ch2 corner space, dc in each st] 4 times. 

Ss into the first dc of the starting corner. –
25 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Round 14

Ch1, [(dc, ch2, dc) into the ch2 corner space, dc in 3rd loop in each st] 4 times.

Finish with an invisible join. – 27 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

For a larger square (20 rounds) continue
after Round 10 as instructed below.

For a 20-Round Square:

Work Rounds 1 to 10 as instructed, continue as outlined below

Round 11: Repeat Round 8 – 21 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Round 12: Repeat Round 9 – 23 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Round 13: Repeat Round 10 – 25 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Round 14: Repeat Round 8 – 27 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Round 15: Repeat Round 9 – 29 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Round 16: Repeat Round 10 – 31 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Round 17: As Round 11 – 33 sts per side plus ch2 corner space 

Round 18: As Round 12 – 35 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Round 19: As Round 13 – 37 sts per side plus ch2 corner space 

Round 20: As Round 14 – 39 sts per side plus ch2 corner space

Fasten off and weave in ends.

Congratulations, your large version of the LOVE is in the Air is now finished 🙂

If you want to take pretty pictures, you can block your square. 

There are different ways to block a square, which I will write about in a different post.

You can go thrifty or luxurious with your blocking tools* or a mixture of both. Either way, your squares will most likely look straighter with an increased stitch definition when they have been blocked. 

This post contains affiliate links in form of text links – marked with an asterisk (*) in purple – and banners, all from carefully selected craft suppliers.

When you purchase something through one of the links, I earn a tiny commission – no extra cost to you. Every bit means support towards the expenses of website hosting, email service, secure gateways and all the other tools and apps required to bring these patterns to you. It’s a win-win, right?

I participate in the following programs:

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Knitpicks*

WeCrochet*

Lovecrafts*

Deramores*

Blueprint*

Darn Good Yarn*

Knitcrate

Annie’s* 

MumsHandMade*

Creativebug*

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